Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
At midday the street leading into the cathedral square is a scene of
multitudinous interests. A little boys' school, marshalled solemnly
by a master--spectacled and sticked--the boys all stiff-capped and
starched looking; a square, closed-in cart, with neatly packed rows of
those appetising long loaves lying cosily side by side; a huge cart,
_messageries Parisiennes_, drawn by splendid cart-horses, five bells on
each side of their splendid collars--collars edged with brass nails,
and brass facings with pink background--the peasant conducting it,
wearing the high-crowned black hat and loose, navy-blue blouse reaching
to knee, and opening wide at collar; a barrow of some sweet-smelling
stuff pushed over the cobbles by a costermonger who, as he passed,
stretched out a disengaged hand to re-arrange his truck of oranges to
make the vacant places of those gone before seem less deserted and
more enticing to a possible customer. The stream beside the way was
swinging merrily along in a succession of weirs, forming itself into
different patterns as it went along, owing to its course being over
rough, uneven cobbles. Here, as it turned a corner, the sun shone full
on it, and from being a stream of doubtful reputation--being in most
instances the receptacle of the castaway Flotsam and Jetsam of many a
household--it straightway became a river of pure molten steel.
Then, down another street as I accompanied it, its tide turned--the
tide which is swelled by many pailfuls from the doors that lie beside
its route--and like the bottle imp, it dwindled into a tiny thing, and
flowed along weakly--creased and lined.
The Guide-book urges one on from Rouen, to Caudebec-en-Caux. But I
found so much to see in the way of old streets and old buildings in
Rouen itself, that I postponed our day's journey to Caudebec till just
before we were leaving. Then our choice fell on a day when the powers
of the weather fought against us in our courses, and it rained almost
continuously for the whole day long. But there are special beauties
which are abroad in these times, which those who have seen them once,
recognise at their true value, and would not forego.
In this case there was a driving white scud of rain slanting across
the meadows. It swept over steep slopes redly orange with fallen
leaves lying thick in layers everywhere. The tree trunks stood, yellow
in contrast, over streams in which the rain made spear pricks, which
swiftly became pin-point centres of ever widening circles. Cows moving
lazily on, in their grazing, stepped in the squelching gravel of the
deeply-rutted roads, shining up dully, in dark slate colour. Here and
there, but not often, black-timbered barns came into sight, sparsely
covered with vivid green moss.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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