Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
Then would come a field with mangy patches of colourless grass, the
trees standing sharply outlined in all shades of vivid emerald green:
an orchard of gnarled branches of the very palest green imaginable--a
sort of etherealized mildew, backed by a fine old slated farm-house.
Close beside it a farmyard, the ground literally dotted all over with
black hens, busy over remunerative pickings. A little further on was
another orchard, this time filled with whitened skeletons of trees,
their bark all being stripped from off the trunks. The hedgerows were
crowned with quick successions of briary--the grey hair of the dying
year--and at the end of one of them was an avenue of gnarled dwarf
willows bordered by a winding stream; their rounded heads shewing soft
purple against the green meadow.
At Duclair it was evidently market-day. The train was ushered in by a
clatter and jabber of voices, shrill and hoarse mixed: all shouting
at the top of their voices. The platform was littered with various
coloured sacks, well filled out; market baskets in all positions, and
little wooden barred cages for the poor cramped domestic fowl. Beyond
Duclair the trees look like brooms the wrong way up: as if grown on the
principle of the received tradition in London markets as to the correct
complexion of asparagus--long bare trunks and only at the latter end a
little bit of spread green to shew that it was the business end.
These trees were presently merged in a dark belt of forest, standing
clear against a soft grey lilac horizon of distant land shouldering
the sky. Deep-roofed cottages, velveted with moss and lichen; an old
_château_ with steep slate gables; alternate green and red brown
meadow, picked out in places with sombrely dark brushwood, with
delicate, incisive, clear cut edge against the softer foliaged trees.
Then a broad band of glittering steel encircling the hills which rose
abruptly behind it.
Most of the cottages here have a sort of hem of arabesque ornamentation
from the flowers which grow freely all along the tops of the roofs. The
Seine, like the Jordan of old, overflowed its banks pretty considerably
this autumn, to judge by the look of the land in this district. Just
before the train slowed into the little primitive terminus of Caudebec,
the rain, which had held up for half an hour or so, came on again,
whipping the river's surface into long weals.
Caudebec itself is on the banks of the river, with rising ground almost
surrounding it. Were it not for the modern element which has, as usual,
played ducks and drakes with the picturesque element, Caudebec would be
unique.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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