Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
The town crier here is a wonderful personage. He is dressed in official
black cape and square cap, and he beats an imperative tattoo, as a
summons to the citizens, on a big drum which is slung round his neck.
But when that was performed and when, presumably, he had gained their
attention, he only mumbled a few indistinct words and then hurried on,
or rather more correctly, shambled on into the next street.
The market at Dieppe is one of the most picturesque affairs I have ever
seen in France, barring that at Poitiers, which was quite unsurpassable
in its varied pageantry of colour. The peasants at the Dieppe market
all stand on the pathway of the principal street, their baskets in
front of them on the curb. The unfortunate animals for sale, as usual,
I saw over and over again taken up, with no regard to their feelings,
or as to which side up they were in the habit of living, and dangled,
or swung, head downwards _ad lib_. Then bounced--literally bounced--up
and down by intending purchasers (who dumped them down to test their
weight), and by doubtful purchasers also. One woman held a number of
fowls in one hand--their legs all tied together--as unconcernedly as if
they were some parcel out of a milliner's shop. It is not an inspiring
sight. People's stomachs pitted against their hearts, and winning by an
easy length in each case. In one instance it was not a case of the lion
lying down with the lamb, but of the hen being forced to lie down with
the duck, who, profiting by her propinquity to the other, curled her
long neck and pillowed it on the hen's shoulder.
In the afternoons the merry-go-round was in full swing just in front
of the church, but instead of our predominant and wearisome fog-horn
effect, it was soft, and with a hint of brass instruments in the
distance, and the tinkling "rat-tat-tat," of the drum was distinctly
realistic.
One of the prettiest little incidents that I have seen for a long while
occurred when I was passing through one part of the market here. An old
shrivelled, but apple-cheeked, market woman came by, and as she turned
the corner of a stall she found herself face to face with a Sister. The
latter, instantly recognising her, gave her the most courteous bow and
smile I have ever seen, and I shall never forget the pleased, elated
expression on the old woman's face as she passed on, after receiving
the salutation. Once before, I saw courtesy and respect shewn as
unmistakeably, and that was in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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