Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
In Normandy the street cries seem to be all in the major key. I
noticed this especially at Rouen, and here again at Dieppe; the minor
key is absent in them. They are, too, a distinctly musical sentence
in themselves. A sweet little melody was being sung up one street in
Dieppe along which I was passing, by two fish-women carrying a basket
of fish between them. One man who came along playing bagpipes, from
time to time, to notify the approach of his wares, paused to cry out in
a loud tone what sounded like: "I have not got it to-day, but I shall
have it to-morrow!"
Dieppe has the same sort of blank-Casino-stare-of-sightless eyes,
as had Arcachon; only the former place, being a town on its own
foundation, as it were, and not brought into prominence by the
parasitical growth in its midst, of the Casino, is not so dominated
by it. The two venerable round towers, with their conical, red-tiled
peaks stand alone, unaffected by the modern hotels and buildings
on the front, which surround them. Somehow, though, I could never
understand exactly why they should so insistently suggest Tweedledum
and Tweedledee, yet they did again and again bring those worthies into
my mind whenever I looked at them. They stand at some little distance
from the grand old castle which has seen the things that they have also
seen in those far-away bygone ages. The castle, stands greyly aloof and
apart, high on its hill, banked up by serrated chalk cliffs and grey
expanse of wall.
The hotel at which we put up in the town was a charming old panelled
house, dating two or three hundred years back; perhaps longer even than
that. The ceilings slanted, and the walls contained those delightful
deep cupboards which are such a joy to those who possess them. Also
there were the little steps up and down leading from one room into
another; steps which project the unwary into the future, sometimes too
soon for their comfort.
Opening out of the first floor was an outside promenade, with balcony
which led one out among a perfect wilderness of roofs; steep roofs
of ancient, well-worn red tiles, whereon the soft velvet feet of the
moss climb down step by step to the edge of sudden precipitous gables,
crowned with white pinnacles, all backed by a venerable-looking red
brick wall which had lost a tooth here and there of its first row, and
never had others to fill the holes. Then, further along, through a gap
in the wall, one caught sight of the splendid, deep, wavy red brick
roof of the house opposite, with three little holes pierced above, two
tiny dormer windows, and, below these, two larger ones. Below them,
again, the soft yellow-cream cob wall.
It was quite an ideal spot in which to dream on a hot summer's day; but
though to admire, yet not to linger in during a November one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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