Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
The command of La Réole, says Péréfixe, was given to an old Huguenot
captain, named Ussac, who was remarkably ugly, to a degree which made
him a mark of observation; nevertheless, his heart was too tender to
resist the fascinations of one of the fair syrens who aided the plans of
Catherine, the Queen-mother. The Vicomte de Turenne, then aged about
twenty, could not resist making the passion of the old soldier a theme
of ridicule among his companions; and Henry, instead of discouraging
this humour, joined in it heartily, making his faithful servant a butt
on all occasions. Ussac could not endure this attack on so very tender a
point, and, rendered almost frantic with vexation, forgetting every
consideration of honour and religion, abandoned the cause of Henry, and
delivered over the town of La Réole to the enemy.
In this part of the country are to be found that race of persons known
to the original natives as _Gavaches_: the word is one of contempt,
taken from the Spanish; and the habit of treating these people with
contumely, which is not even yet entirely worn out, comes from an early
time: that is to say, so long ago as 1526; at which period a great part
of the population on the banks of the Drot, and round La Réole and
Marmande, was carried off by an epidemic; so that the country was
completely desolate; and where all was once fertile and flourishing,
nothing but ruin and misery was to be seen. Henry d'Albret, King of
Navarre, anxious to save it from sterility, and to restore a happy state
of things, re-peopled the lands with emigrants, whom he induced to come
and settle there, from Anjou, Angoumois, and Saintonge. They united
themselves to the very small remnant of those remaining, who had escaped
the contagion, and, in a short time, forty-seven _communes_ recovered
their prosperity.
The strangers who thus filled the places of the former inhabitants,
brought their customs and manners with them; Du Mège remarks that, "to
them are owing the style of building which may be observed in some of
the old houses in this neighbourhood, namely, the very pointed and
inclined roofs, which belong rather to a country accustomed to snow,[14]
than to this where it is not usual."
[Footnote 14: _Du Mège (Statistique_ III.) This observation scarcely
appears to me correct, since the countries bordering on the Loire are
certainly not more used to snows than those closer to the mountains. In
Béarn these shelving roofs are constantly to be seen.]
The descendants of these new colonists have not forgotten their origin;
they inherit the manners of their fathers; wear the same thick hair and
long coats. Their drawling pronunciation, peculiar idiom, and the
slowness of their movements, make them easily distinguished from the
lively Gascons. A curious mixture of dialect resulted from the re-union
of so many provinces with the _patois_ of the country, and the language
still heard there is a jargon of strange sounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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