Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
The servants, however, seem good, industrious, honest, and very civil;
and, as far as our own experience went, we saw only good conduct; while
from our hostess at the Bain Royal we met with liberality and extreme
courtesy; she, it is true, is from the refined city of Toulouse, but has
long resided at Pau, and I should certainly counsel any stranger, whom,
they would suit, to choose her apartments as a residence; for her
pavilions are situated in the most agreeable position, out of the noise
and dampness of the town, and with the whole range of Pyrenees
constantly in uninterrupted view.
[Footnote 26: All hot! all hot!]
CHAPTER II.
THE CLIMATE OF PAU--STORMS--FINE WEATHER--PALASSOU--REASONS FOR
GOING TO PAU--THE WINTER.
ONE of the chief inducements to foreigners, particularly the English, to
visit Pau for the winter, is the reputation of its climate for mildness
and softness. When we arrived, in October, in a storm of rain, it was,
we understood, the continuation of a series of wet weather, which,
throughout the year, had made the whole country desolate, and the
company at all the baths had, in consequence, left a month sooner than
usual; for a fortnight after our establishment at Pau, nothing could be
more agreeable than the season, precisely answering to the beautiful
weather which my letters announced from different parts of England.
During this time the mountains were rarely visible, and when seen
appeared indistinctly. This charming fortnight, during which Pau seemed
to deserve all the commendations so profusely bestowed on it, was a
promise of the calm and peaceful winter which I was told was always to
be found in these favoured regions; I bore the sarcasms against the
fogs and, above all, the uncertainty of the climate of gloomy England,
as well as I could; and my assertion that, till the first week in
November, I had last year bathed in the sea at Brighton, was received
with indulgent smiles of pity at my nationality, both by French and
English; but of course not believed, for the air of France, I have
always observed, has such a property of effacing the remembrance of
sunny days passed on the other side of the channel, that, by degrees,
our countrymen arrive at the belief that nothing but fog and rain are
ever to be seen in our ill-fated island, and they imagine that, till
they came abroad, their knowledge of blue sky or bright sun was obtained
only in pictures, but had no existence on the banks of the Thames or
elsewhere, in the desolate regions they had quitted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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