Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
This table-land is traversed for several miles over a broken common,
variegated with heath and fern, and intersected here and there by
brawling streams, which take their course to swell the tributaries of
the distant Gave. At the eastern extremity of the common, another wide
forest of chesnut appears, where the road rapidly descends with many
windings to the plain of Bigorre. One of these turns offers the
loveliest picture it is possible to imagine. The foreground is formed of
steep, rough banks, through which the road winds its sinuous track, the
thick yet graceful foliage of the chesnut rises like a frame on either
hand, and spreads also in front, while the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, with
snow on its summit, and the Pic de Montaigu, with its sharp, dark
outline, complete the distance. To give life to the scene, there are the
peasants and market-women on their way to the fair of Tarbes,--the
former wearing the characteristic brown _berret_, and the latter the
black or scarlet-peaked hood, which gives quite a clerical air to their
costume. Indeed, to see the women carelessly bestriding their active
Bigourdin horses, which they manage with infinite ease, one might
readily fancy, at a slight distance, that it was rather a party of monks
of the olden time wending to their monastery, than a group of peasants
laden with their market-ware. A little further, the road abruptly turns
again, and Tarbes lies before us, distant about four or five miles,
supported by another range of mountains, amongst which the Pic d'Orbizan
is most conspicuous. The plain of Bigorre is now soon gained, and in
half an hour we stand in the Place de Maubourguet, in the centre of
Tarbes.
Tarbes, as a city, has little to recommend it beyond its situation, in
the midst of a fertile plain, watered by the Adour, some of whose
tributary streams run through the streets, imparting freshness and
securing cleanliness. It has nothing to reveal to the lover of
antiquity--no vestige remaining of the architecture of the period when
Tarbes was celebrated as the place where the Black Prince held his
court.
The cathedral is a modern building, possessing no claim to notice; and,
except the royal _Haras_, there is nothing to detain the traveller.
Here, however, are some fine horses,--the best amongst them English,
except, indeed, a superb black barb, named Youssouf, once the property
of an ex-foreign minister more famous in the Tribune than on the Champ
de Mars. In consequence, as I was informed by one of the grooms, of the
minister's indifferent equitation, his majesty, Louis-Philippe,
purchased the barb and sent it hither. The most noticeable steeds
besides, are Rowlestone, Sir Peter, Windcliffe, and Skirmisher--the last
thirty-seven years' old--whose names bespeak their origin; there is also
a fine Arab from Algiers, named Beni. The Haras is beautifully kept, and
is surrounded by a fine garden, from whence the view of the distant
mountains, beyond Bagnères de Bigorre, is exceedingly grand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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