Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
The ascent of Mont L'Héris is steep but not difficult, for the profusion
of flowers and richly-scented plants, scattered over the short elastic
turf, beguile the climber's path, and lure him pleasantly upward. The
first pause I made was on a bold projection, skirting the forest of
Haboura on one side, and on the other hanging over the beautiful valley
of Campan. Beneath me lay the town of Bagnères, and, far as the eye
could reach, extended the plain of Bigorre, with the clear waters of the
Adour marking their track like a silver thread. On the slope of a
neighbouring mountain the wild-pigeon hunters were spreading their nets;
for the _Chasse aux Palombes_ is nowhere so successfully followed as in
this part of the Pyrenees. It is a simple sport; but highly productive
to those engaged in it. I pursued my route towards the summit of the
mountain, the "_Penne de l'Héris_," as it is still called, retaining its
Celtic name. To do so, it was necessary to plunge into the thicket, and
for a long time I made my way scrambling over the slippery surface of
mossy rocks, as best I might, by the aid of the roots and lower branches
of the forest-trees. At length I emerged from the wood, and stood upon
the fertile pastures of the mountain; from whence the ascent to the
immense block of marble which crowns Mont l'Héris, is tolerably easy. It
is a singular mass, on the southern side of which is an enormous
excavation; amongst the _débris_ of which was a path that led to the
top. If the view below was lovely, this was magnificent; my eyes were,
however, riveted on one object--the towering height of the _Pic du
Midi_, which seemed almost immediately above my head; though the
mountain on the other side of the valley of Campan at our feet, showed
us how far distant it really was. Directed by the peasant-guide, who had
volunteered his services at Aste, I contrived to form a tolerable notion
of the track which I was to pursue on the morrow; and it was only the
warning shadows which began to creep over the valleys, and the clear
tones of the church bells, at Bagnères, marking the hour at which I had
promised to join the _table d'hôte_ at the Hôtel de France, that
expressively told me to loiter no longer on the mountains, lest darkness
should entangle my feet before I had cleared its steep declivities. I
made haste, therefore, to return to Bagnères, crossing the Adour this
time by a bridge no less picturesque than the former, but somewhat more
secure.
On the following morning I rose at daylight, and, at the moment fixed
upon, Charlet, the guide, whom I had agreed with, rode up to the door
of the hotel, leading another small, sturdy, mountain horse, and
accompanied by the inseparable companion of his wanderings, a bull-dog
named Pluto, which, had sex been considered, should have been called
Proserpine, though not for beauty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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