Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
Having made this lamentation, the valiant Roland, resolving that his
weapon should never pass into other hands, raised his arm, and, with the
last effort of expiring nature, clove the massy rock in twain, breaking
the good sword, Durendal, into a thousand shivers by the force of the
blow.
The voice of Charlet roused me from the reverie into which I had fallen,
desiring me to look in the direction of the great cascade at a troop of
izards that were bounding up the rocks. I turned and saw the graceful
little creatures scaling, with inconceivable agility, heights which
seemed absolutely perpendicular, so slight is the hold which they
require for their tiny hoofs. It was but for a minute that I beheld
them; in the next they were lost behind a projecting rock, and I saw
them no more.
We now turned our faces down the valley, often, however, pausing to look
back; and before we again entered the village of Gavarnie we stopped at
the little old church to inspect the sculls called "Les crânes des douze
Templiers," who are said to have been beheaded by order of Philippe
le-Bel. Whether true or false, they are the only antiquities here--the
church being comparatively modern. At the unpromising inn we found our
horses refreshed by rest; and, without more ado, we remounted and
returned by the road we came to Luz, which we reached soon after
nightfall.
Quitting Luz the next morning, with much regret at being unable to
remain longer to explore the beauties which surround it, we took the
road to Pierrefitte, and, after a pleasant ride of about two hours, in
the course of which we passed through the most lovely scenery--the most
remarkable features of which are the depth and narrowness of the
mountain gorges, and the boldness of the bridges which span them, one in
particular bearing the characteristic name of the _Pont d'Enfer_--we
arrived at the Hôtel de la Poste at Pierrefitte, where my carpet-bag was
deposited, to lighten the load of Charlet's horse, for we had many
miles that day to travel. We then pushed on towards Cauteretz, ascending
by the old road, which, though steep, saves much time to those lightly
mounted; from its point of junction with the new one, it is as fine as
any in Europe, and the variety which it offers makes the valley as
beautiful as any in the Pyrenees, while it retains its own distinctive
character, caused by the greater quantity of foliage, thus gaining in
softness what it loses in grandeur. After crossing a fine bridge, about
half-way up the valley, the road takes a spiral direction, called _Le
Limaçon_, the buttresses which support it being remarkable for the
solidity and excellence of the masonry; and having made our way to the
summit, the peak of the Monné above Cauteretz became visible for the
first time since leaving the Tourmalet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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