Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
Beyond the Cerizet are two other fine falls--the _Pas de l'Ours_ and the
_Coussin_--which we pass on the way to the Pont d'Espagne, where the
roads separate; the one in front leading into Spain by the Val de
Jarret, and the other--which turns suddenly to the left--crossing the
bridge, and conducting to the Lac de Gaube. The Pont d'Espagne is a most
picturesque object: two torrents unite a little below it, one of which
is the Marcadaou, the other the Gave that issues from the lonely lake;
the Marcadaou rushes over a broad, flat rock--foaming and boiling, as if
with rage to meet an expected enemy--while the deeper Gave throws itself
from its narrow bed, and twists and turns, apparently falling back on
itself, as if it sought to avoid the collision: they meet, however, and
after the first concussion they flow on, smoothly enough, till a sudden
turn hides them from our view, and we hear only their angry voices,
caused by some fresh interruption to their course. But to have the
finest view of the general effect, the bridge must be seen from below,
where a rock stands boldly out, intercepting the heady current. It is
constructed of fir-trees, felled on the spot, whose light stems,
standing out in relief against the clear blue sky, seem almost too
fragile to withstand the concussion caused by the "hell of waters"
beneath. Nowhere does the pine appear to so much advantage as beside the
Pont d'Espagne; some are the "wrecks of a single winter," others display
a profusion of dark foliage, and the branches of all are thickly covered
with grey parasitic moss, that hangs to them like hair, and gives to
them a most picturesque appearance, like bearded giants guarding the
romantic pass.
The narrow pathway through the forest, which leads to the Lac de Gaube,
is excessively steep, and turns at least twenty times as it pursues its
zigzag course. For the first half-hour nothing was visible but
pine-trees, firs, and blocks of granite; and the road was difficult even
for the sure-footed beasts which we bestrode; at length, we cleared the
wood, and at once the Vignemale rose in awful splendour before us, its
glaciers glittering in the sun, ten thousand feet above the bed of the
dark blue lake, itself at a vast elevation above the level of the sea.
Next to Gavarnie, this view of the Vignemale struck me as the most
impressive object I had seen, the presence of the still lake reminding
me of similar scenes in Switzerland; none of which, however, imparted
the sense of solitude so completely as this. It might possibly arise
from the associations belonging to the Lac de Gaube, the mournful
evidence of which was before my eyes, in the little tomb raised to the
memory of the unfortunate husband and wife who were drowned here in the
year 1832. It stands on a small, rocky promontory, enclosed by a light
iron rail, and the tablet bears the following inscription in French and
English, on opposite sides. I transcribed both, and give the latter:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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