Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
Beginning almost from the entrance to Pau, extends an immense district
of uncultivated land, called the Pont Long. This _lande_ is covered with
coarse fern and heath, and is intersected with wide marshes; thirty-two
communes have a right in this ground; but it chiefly belongs to the
Vallée d'Ossau. It was formerly much more extensive than it now is; but,
even yet, a very inconsiderable portion has been reclaimed: its extent
is about twelve leagues in length, and one and a half in width.
In the centre of this wild country is the ancient town of Morlàas, whose
name, tradition says, was derived from the circumstance of a
prince--Gaston Centulle--having been there assassinated; from whence it
was called _Mort-là_, a derivation, probably, as likely as any other
that can be found.
We chose a very bright, warm, and beautiful day--during the continuance
of fine weather, in November--to drive to Morlàas. Our carriage was
stopped, just as we got out of the town, by a regiment of soldiers who
were marching out, and, but for the courtesy of the colonel, we should
have been impeded for nearly a league: he, however, kindly ordered the
ranks to open, and we were allowed to go on between the two lines. This
regiment--the 25th of the line--is a remarkably fine one, and appears to
be kept in constant activity by its commanders, going out to great
distances to exercise in every weather. It is attended by a pretty troop
of young women, whose appearance reminded me of Catherine's _petite
bande_, so attractive did it seem. I do not know whether this is a
common thing, but I never saw such a troop before in company with a
regiment. They wear a costume, half feminine half military; have short
dresses of grey cloth--the colour of the men's great coats--sitting
close to their shape, very full in the skirt, and with cuffs turned up
with red facings, red trowsers, and military boots, a white plaited ruff
and habit-shirt, a white--neatly frilled and plaited--cap, surmounted
with a small, smart glazed hat, round which is the word _Cantinière_:
across their shoulder is slung a canteen, and in this equipment they
step along with a military air, and in a dashing style which would be
invaluable on the stage. I never saw anything more singular and pretty,
and to me so new: almost every one of the women was young and very
good-looking, extremely well made, and active and strong; as, indeed,
they require to be, for they accompany the soldiers on all their
expeditions, and remain out all day. It is something as amusing to
behold as the troop of _savans and asses_, taken care of by Napoleon in
his Egyptian campaign.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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