Beach Rambles in Search of Seaside Pebbles and Crystals: With Some Observations on the Origin of the Diamond and Other Precious StonesFrancis, John George
Science
Beach Rambles in Search of Seaside Pebbles and Crystals: With Some Observations on the Origin of the Diamond and Other Precious Stones
It has been found, by experiment, that the velocity imparted to an
incoming wave sometimes equals _seventy feet in a second of time_. Now
this would give nearly one mile in a minute, if it were a projectile in
free space; but the case here is, of course, different, since the wave
is only a portion of the mass to which it belongs, and no individual
wave travels very far. Still, the amount of rush and pressure which are
exerted is altogether stupendous. Probably the _breakers_, which in an
enduring storm rise against a lighthouse in the open sea, are among the
strongest instances with which we are acquainted, and, next to these, I
suppose, the billows off the Cape of Good Hope. But we may take those on
the Irish coast, westward, as a well-known sample. I have often watched
these—once in a gale of wind—and I have seen, in one as yet _unbroken_
wave, a body of water which I should compute roughly at two hundred tons’
weight, and as having, at the moment, a velocity of not less than sixty
feet in the second, discharge itself upon the reef of rock. On such
occasions, if you happen to stand on the shore, you will feel the ground
_vibrate_ apparently, though the sensation is probably electrical. But
let any one consider the conditions of the wave cited above, and reckon
what is _the force of the blow_ at the moment of impact. I have no doubt
it would knock down a good strong house, if delivered against the upright
face of it.
One winter, when I was at Sandown, in the Isle of Wight, a spot
frequently mentioned in these pages, I found I was _utterly unable_
to traverse the bit of open road reaching from the Fort to the point
where the lane turns off to Yaverland. Yet I had on at the time a stout
Cording’s waterproof, with sleeves, and a slouched hat tied under my
chin, and held a powerful oaken stick in my hand to help me win my way.
In fact, it was a trial of dynamics between me and the gale, whether
this “body,” acted on by a continuous muscular force, in nearly a right
line, could be propelled through that resisting medium. I am sorry to
say, it could _not_; but, in the attempt, it lost a neck-button from its
coat, and was within an ace of being blown into the hedge, like a certain
“man in Thessaly, wondrous wise,” whom we have heard tell of in our
childhood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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