Communism -- Soviet Union; Mongolia -- Description and travel
Meanwhile, as we talked, the witch doctor came out of one of the yurtas.
He was an old man with a cataract on one eye and with a face deeply
scarred by smallpox. He was dressed in tatters with various colored bits
of cloth hanging down from his waist. He carried a drum and a flute. We
could see froth on his blue lips and madness in his eyes. Suddenly he
began to whirl round and dance with a thousand prancings of his long
legs and writhings of his arms and shoulders, still beating the drum and
playing the flute or crying and raging at intervals, ever accelerating
his movements until at last with pallid face and bloodshot eyes he fell
on the snow, where he continued to writhe and give out his incoherent
cries. In this manner the doctor treated his patients, frightening with
his madness the bad devils that carry disease. Another witch doctor gave
his patients dirty, muddy water, which I learned was the water from the
bath of the very person of the Living Buddha who had washed in it his
“divine” body born from the sacred flower of the lotus.
“Om! Om!” both witches continuously screamed.
While the doctors fought with the devils, the ill people were left to
themselves. They lay in high fever under the heaps of sheepskins and
overcoats, were delirious, raved and threw themselves about. By the
braziers squatted adults and children who were still well, indifferently
chatting, drinking tea and smoking. In all the yurtas I saw the
diseased and the dead and such misery and physical horrors as cannot be
described.
And I thought: “Oh, Great Jenghiz Khan! Why did you with your keen
understanding of the whole situation of Asia and Europe, you who devoted
all your life to the glory of the name of the Mongols, why did you not
give to your own people, who preserve their old morality, honesty and
peaceful customs, the enlightenment that would have saved them from such
death? Your bones in the mausoleum at Karakorum being destroyed by
the centuries that pass over them must cry out against the rapid
disappearance of your formerly great people, who were feared by half the
civilized world!”
Such thoughts filled my brain when I saw this camp of the dead tomorrow
and when I heard the groans, shoutings and raving of dying men,
women and children. Somewhere in the distance the dogs were howling
mournfully, and monotonously the drum of the tired witch rolled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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