Beauties and Antiquities of Ireland: Being a Tourist's Guide to Its Most Beautiful Scenery & an Archæologist's Manual for Its Most Interesting RuinsRussell, Thomas O'Neill
History
Beauties and Antiquities of Ireland: Being a Tourist's Guide to Its Most Beautiful Scenery & an Archæologist's Manual for Its Most Interesting Ruins
Russell, Thomas O'Neill
Ireland -- Antiquities; Ireland -- Description and travel
Cong is very nearly on the road to Connemara, which, with the exception of
parts of Donegal, is the wildest, most savage, and most extraordinary part
of Ireland. Those who want to see all the wildness of Connemara, its
chaotic mountains, its innumerable lakes, far-entering bays, and
illimitable bogs, should drive from Cong, or from Oughterard to Clifden,
and go from there to Galway by rail. Whoever travels that route will see
some of the most charming as well as some of the most terrific scenery in
Ireland. He will see more lakes than can be found on an area of equal size
in any part of the known world. If the visit is made when the heath is in
full bloom, he will have such a world of flowers to feast his eyes on as
can hardly be seen anywhere else, not even in Ireland.
Loch Corrib, at the head of which Cong is situated, is one of the great
lakes of Ireland. The traveller going to Cong sails up it from Galway.
There is not very much of antiquarian interest on its shores or on its
islands, save the ruins of _Caisleán na Ceirce_, or the Hen's Castle. They
are on a promontory on the lake. It is not a very old building, being
probably of the fourteenth century, and was built, it is supposed, by one
of the O'Flaherties.
There are the ruins of what antiquarians think are those of one of the
oldest churches ever erected in Ireland, on the bleak island of
Incha-goile. There are also the ruins of another church on the same
island; but judging from the extremely archaic architecture of the one
first mentioned, it must be many centuries older than the other. Both
churches must have been very small.
But although the lower part of Loch Corrib cannot boast of much scenic
beauty, its upper part is magnificent. It thrusts its sinuous arms up into
the wildest recesses of the Joyce Country, and among mountains of
fantastic forms. The Joyce Country, _Duthaigh Sheoghach_ in Gaelic, has
ever been remarkable for the gigantic size of its men. There have been
scores of Joyces who were from six feet four to six feet six in height,
and stout in proportion. There are still some of its men of immense size.
It is said that not so very long ago a giant Joyce was going home from a
fair or market, and that a faction of ten men who were not on perfectly
friendly terms with him, followed him to beat or perhaps kill him. Joyce
had no weapons or means of defence of any kind, so he unyoked the horse
from the cart or dray on which he was riding, tore it to pieces, armed
himself with one of its shafts as a "shillelagh," and awaited his enemies;
but they seem not to have liked being hit with the shaft of a cart and
retreated. Those who like can believe or not believe this story. It is
given as the writer heard it from a very respectable gentleman who knew
Joyce.
LOCH DERG
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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