Beauties and Antiquities of Ireland: Being a Tourist's Guide to Its Most Beautiful Scenery & an Archæologist's Manual for Its Most Interesting RuinsRussell, Thomas O'Neill
History
Beauties and Antiquities of Ireland: Being a Tourist's Guide to Its Most Beautiful Scenery & an Archæologist's Manual for Its Most Interesting Ruins
Russell, Thomas O'Neill
Ireland -- Antiquities; Ireland -- Description and travel
The "Annals of the Four Masters" say that St Brigit was buried in
Downpatrick, in the same grave with St Patrick; but the learned editor and
translator of their annals says that she and Bishop Conlaeth were buried,
one on the right, and one on the left of the altar, in the church of
Kildare, and he gives Colgan's great book, _Trias Thaumaturga_, as his
authority, and no authority could be higher.
GLENDALOCH
There are not many places in Ireland more interesting than this strange
and weird glen. It can hardly be called beautiful. It is gloomy and grand;
and there is something depressing about it even in the finest day in
autumn when the sombre mountains by which it is surrounded on all sides
but one are mantled in their most gorgeous crimson drapery of
full-blooming heather. It is just such a spot as an anchorite like St
Kevin would choose as a place for contemplation and prayer.
Glendaloch--it ought _not_ to be spelled _Glendalough_--is very nearly in
the centre of the romantic county of Wicklow. It is a good central point
from which to make excursions to the many beautiful and interesting places
in its vicinity, such as Glen Molur, the Glen of Imail, the Meeting of the
Waters, and the Mountain of Lugnacuilla, the highest in Leinster. The
interior of the County Wicklow may be said to be a vast wilderness of
mountains, bogs, and glens. But its mountains have, with one exception,
the defect of being round-topped. They lack the boldness of the hills of
Connemara and Donegal. The mountain that is the most bold and alpine in
the county, and that forms an exception to the general contour of its
hills, is the famous one called the "Sugar-loaf," near Bray. The Dublin
grocer, or whoever he was that gave this beautiful hill such an abominable
name, should have his memory held in everlasting contempt. Its real name
is a grand one, Sleeve Coolan, _rectè_ Sliabh Cualann. But in spite of
the generally rounded outlines of the Wicklow Mountains, there are some
splendid alpine views to be seen among them; and none finer than from the
Glen of Lugalaw, about seven or eight miles from Bray.
[Illustration: GLENDALOCH.]
But of all places in Wicklow, Glendaloch is the most famous. It ought to
be so, for there is nothing like it in Ireland. There are many glens as
wild and as gloomy as it, but they lack the historic interest and the
legendary halo that make Glendaloch dear to the archæologist, the poet,
and the dreamer. Its history goes back almost to the beginning of
Christian times. For five hundred years it was one of the most important
ecclesiastical and educational places in Ireland. Its name constantly
occurs in Irish annals and history; and its history was for centuries as
gloomy as itself, for the Danes plundered it and burned it so often that
it seems strange that it was not abandoned many centuries sooner. It was
so near their great stronghold, Dublin, that it was harried by them on and
off for over two hundred years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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