Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
museum of human nature and national character.--Tables d'hôtes crowded
with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
Tables d'hôte's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
From Aix to Liège we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
citizen of Liège (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Liège, and they are by no
means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
of Bruxelles (said our Liègeois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
wars. Poor Liège has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
Republicans sold their national and ecclesiastical Estates, and lately
they have had the pleasure of being pillaged by French Marshals and
satisfying the voracious appetite of the Crown Prince, who put them to
an expense of 150,000 frs. in providing his table for 7 weeks, and when
they hinted that they thought it but fair their Royal visitor should pay
for his own dinners, he departed, leaving his bills unpaid. He seems to
have been secreting himself here like a Cat in a barn watching the
motions of the mice, acting solely from interested motives, and ready to
pounce upon whatever might be safely turned to his own advantage. When
the French retreated out of Holland the Duke of Tarentum[88] did the
poor people at Liège the honour of making their town a point in the line
of his march.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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