Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
And upon the stone which now conceals the entrance to the vault the
Duchesse d'Angoulême always kneels at the grave of her father, for the
fine bronze doors are deposed also, only, I believe, because they were
placed there by Buonaparte, and now they have to get into the Vault by
taking up the stone. We got into the carriage full of Buonaparte,
returned to Paris, and then got out again with the Murrays at Malmaison.
It is the only enviable French house I have seen, and deserves
everything Edward said about it, even without the statues and half the
pictures which are taken away.
We spent three or four hours in the Thuilleries Gardens on Sunday.
Buonaparte must have thought of gilding the dome of the Invalides when
he was walking in the Jardin des Thuilleries, it suits the whole thing
so exactly. A French crowd is so gay with the women's shawls and flowers
that they assimilate well with the real flowers, and are almost as great
an ornament to the Garden. A shower came on just as we were standing
near the Palace, and at that moment the guards took their posts as a
signal the King was going to Mass, so Edward and I followed the crowd to
the Salle des Maréchaux (they would not admit Donald because he had
gaiters, and Edward had luckily trowsers), and there we saw Louis XVIII.
and the Duchesse d'Angoulême and Monsieur much better than we had done
the Sunday before, with all the trouble of getting a ticket for
admission into the Chapel, and being squeezed to death into the bargain.
His Majesty is more like a Turtle than anything else, and shows external
evidence of his great affection for Turtle soup. His walk is quite
curious. One of his most intimate friends says that in spite of his
devotion _Le Roi est un peu philosophe_. We staid on Monday to see a
review. Donald introduced us to a Mr. and Mrs. Boyd, who have lived in
France the last 14 years, and have a terrace that overlooks the
Boulevards, so there we sat very commodiously and saw the King and the
Duchesses de Berri and Angoulême, in an open Calèche, pass through the
double row of troops which lined the Boulevards from one end to the
other, and a beautiful sight it was. Mr. Boyd invited me to a party at
his house in the country, and in the hopes of seeing that _rara avis_, a
French lady or gentleman, I said yes. So I sent for a hairdresser, who
came post haste, and amused me with his _politesse_, and Edward with his
_politique_. I was quite sorry I could not have him again.
We dined with the Murrays, and then went on to Mr. Boyd, where I found
myself the only lady there dressed amongst about forty. That is to say,
their heads and tails were all in morning costume and mine in
evening....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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