Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
Little enlivened our day after parting with our Monk, unless I should
except a good scene from a picture which happened at one of the Post
houses. No Postillions were at home, so the Landlord himself was to
drive--an enormous man, rather infirm, with a night-cap on his head,
from whence emerged a long pigtail. It was necessary he should be put
into his Jack boots. By Jack boots you are to understand two large
things as big as portmanteaus, always reminding me of boots fit for the
leg which appears in the Castle of Otranto. Accordingly no less than 4
or 5 persons actually lifted the Landlord into his boots, an operation
which, from the weight and infirmities of the one and the extreme
clumsiness of the others, took up nearly a quarter of an hour; and, of
course, when fairly deposited in them he was unable to move, and further
help was necessary to place him on the saddle.... The first view of
Metz, after traversing an uninteresting country, is remarkably fine. It
stands in a fine rich plain, near though beyond the reach of an
eminence--for it does not deserve the name of a mountain--the sides of
which are covered with woods, villages, and vineyards. There is
something very grand in entering a fortified Town--the clattering of
drawbridges, appearance of moats, guns, sentinels, and all the other
etceteras of war. Our passports were demanded for the first time. At
length we were allowed to pass, and found ourselves in a large, clean
town, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, the painted window of which
was equal to any I ever saw. The first thing we invariably do in these
towns is to ascend the highest spire, from whence the general plan and
position are at once explained. You need not be alarmed. There is no
fever at present at Metz, or on the Rhine; but there has been. From the
close of 1813 and until the last two months not less than 69,000 sick or
wounded have been in the hospitals of Metz--a large Church contained
about 3,000 at a time, the remainder were scattered about wherever they
could find room, and many breathed their last in the streets. Of course,
such a concourse of dead and dying infested the air to a certain degree,
and a fever was the result. However, not above 2 or 300 inhabitants
suffered. Of the sick troops from 12 to 1,500 per day were buried
without the town, and quicklime thrown in. We supped with three or four
Frenchmen and a Genoese officer, one of Buonaparte's Imperial _Elites_
of the Guard. His form and countenance were quite Vandyck--I never
looked upon a face so well calculated for a picture; his dark whiskers
and black curling hair composed an admirable frame for a couple of the
most expressive eyes; his manners were extremely gentleman-like, and you
may conceive I did not talk and look at him with any diminution of
interest when I found he was on his way home from Moscow. He had gone
through the whole of the retreat, had almost reached the boundaries of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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