Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
beautiful white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
truly astonishing.
On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
other in characters precisely similar:--
A.N. MDCCCXII.
Mémorable par la Campagne
Contre les Russes
Sous la Préfecture de Jules Dragon.
* * * * *
Vu et approuvé par nous
Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz
Le Ier. Janvier 1814.
At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
bridge--_i.e._, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank to bank,
according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led a life of
unsupportable tyranny under the rod of Napoleon. The river was crowded
with custom house officers. Not a man could pass without being
personally searched for Coffee and sugar in every part of his dress. All
they lament now is the uncertainty of their fate. Many expressed a hope
that the report of their being sold to England might be true. All they
want is certainty, and then their commerce will revive. As it is,
nothing can be more uninteresting in a commercial point of view than
this noble river. We did not see above a dozen Merchants' barks in the
course of 120 miles, and yet they say trade is tenfold greater than when
Napoleon governed. Below Coblentz we passed some of the Châteaux of the
German Princes, which are generally large, uncomfortable-looking houses,
fitted up, as far as external examination allowed us to judge, without
taste. The river became rather dull, but at Andernach, where we slept,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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