Behind the scenes in Peking : $b Being experiences during the siege of the LegationsHooker, Mary
History
Behind the scenes in Peking : $b Being experiences during the siege of the Legations
Hooker, Mary
Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
The combinations of barricades here, there, and everywhere are glorious,
especially on the Wall, and well they might be, as they are made out of
the huge rocks that were used hundreds of years ago to pave this
wonderful piece of masonry. To stand and look down from the Wall into
the British compound makes one realize more than ever how delightfully
easy it would be for the Chinese, if they ever manned this part of the
Wall, to point their guns downward and annihilate us.
Forgetting this possible picture, let me look down and tell you what I
see on this beautiful, sunshiny August morning. Before me lies what we
could naturally call the _terre du siège_, and comprises the Japanese,
German, French, Russian, American, and British compounds, all of which
have their flags flying somewhere, although in most cases the original
Legation flag-poles have been shot down. Then comes as a pretty piece of
colouring, in contrast to the sacked, burnt, and charred Chinese houses,
all that remains of the Hôtel de Pékin, with its collection of flags of
all nations flying in seeming defiance from the upper windows.
Further up Legation Street one sees a dirty, tired-looking, slimy green
canal, running parallel to the British Legation, with a strong and high
barricade on the bridge that spans it, so that we still have
communication with those Legations on the other side—namely, the
Japanese, German, and French. Then between and around these oases of
compounds one sees an occasional big tree which has escaped burning, and
which makes the scene of desolation seem even more lonely and desolate.
Hundreds of houses, half burnt, half broken up, and wholly
uninhabitable, tell the story of how in those first horrible attacks at
the beginning of the siege they were used by the Chinese as cover, and
then looted and burnt. A stray dog of the large wolfish, mongrel type
that is so common in Peking can be seen picking his way about from place
to place with the queer look and walk that seem to mark carrion animals.
[Illustration:
A GATE INTO THE IMPERIAL CITY
]
Standing in the same place, but looking westward, one sees such a
picture of beauty as one could never imagine even in one’s most
exquisite dreams—a song of green and gold, the fairyland palaces of the
wicked old ogress, the Empress-Dowager, these ideal gold-topped
pavilions, palaces, and pagodas rising out of a veritable sea of green,
which quivers and shimmers in the warm summer sunlight. In the old days
we were frankly told that it was dangerous to wander too near enchanted
palaces, and if this warning had been remembered, Kings and Queens would
not have sent their knights of diplomacy to live on the other side of
the Wall of this mysterious “Forbidden Purple City.” It was always a
hazardous thing to do, even in fairy stories, and it seems as if the
tale of what happened to these misguided knights may finish in the
regular good old way, “And they were eaten up and never seen any more.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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