Behind the scenes in Peking : $b Being experiences during the siege of the LegationsHooker, Mary
History
Behind the scenes in Peking : $b Being experiences during the siege of the Legations
Hooker, Mary
Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
Our gates are all closed tight, and occasionally we hear thundering down
Legation Street as whole troops of half-starved horses, ponies, and
donkeys (animals which have been left by their owners in their stables,
and which have managed by some means to free themselves, either by
looters untying them, or perhaps fire freeing them), dash past at top
speed all together in a fury of liberty regained. And dangerous it is
for anyone to be on the road when one of these wild troops race down the
street, for he will certainly be trampled to death. After a time these
mad collections of animals become tame and quiet from hunger and
exhaustion, and are willing enough to be led into almost any courtyard.
Everything is unusual in this wonderful Peking. This morning I walked
with Colonel Churchill and Captain Mallory on the Tartar Wall and down
it to the Ha Ta Men Gate, where we went down the Ramp and walked all
over the tremendously exposed German and French lines with their
barricades and defences. In the German compound the havoc wrought is
unimaginable. Whole sides of the houses have been battered down, in some
instances one or two walls only left standing; and as for the French
compound, every house, every building, and every wall has been levelled
to old Mother Earth again, and nothing but the little house of the
concierge at the gate, which flies the French flag, is left standing.
On seeing this one can understand why the French at the conference not
only wanted Peking to be looted and sacked, but to be burnt as well. As
the whole place can be inspected now, Mr. Gamewell tells me that four
big mines, almost completed, have been found, and, had not the allies
arrived when they did, that the following night would have seen some
terrific explosions in the British Legation, the Hanlin Library, and on
the Tartar Wall even. The mortality of the siege would thus have been
doubled by twenty-four hours’ further delay by our troops.
Baron von Ketteler’s body was accidentally discovered on the 16th by the
Russian troops who were passing near the Tsung-li Yamen, very near the
spot where he had been murdered. The body had been thrown into an old
wooden box and left. The polite communication which had been sent to the
Baroness von Ketteler during the semi-armistice days of the siege that
her husband’s body was lying in state at the Tsung-li Yamen was thus
proved to be an utter fabrication on their part. To-day his formal
obsequies took place in the German Legation, the doyen of the Corps, the
Spanish Minister, reading a short address, which was as well put as it
was as hard for Baroness von Ketteler to hear. I did not go to the
ceremony, however, for I felt as if I had attended more than enough to
last me the rest of a long life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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