Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
When a European travels, a little hut is built for his convenience. A
light framework of lath is run up, just large enough to hold a
travelling bedstead and chair; this is covered with felt or water-proof
sheeting and placed upon the raft. On arrival at Baghdad the whole is
sold for about half its original price. The owner of the keleq sells
the planks of wood forming the floor of the raft, packs up carefully
his skins, and returns by land to Mosul, as the current is too strong
to allow of his return the same way as he came. He is then ready to
be hired for another journey. In good weather a journey on a raft
is a very pleasant mode of travelling. It has many advantages over
caravaning by land. There is no need of the early morning or midnight
scramble preparatory to the start. The owner simply ties up after
sunset, and as soon as dawn appears he quietly slips the rope, and
off the raft glides, while the passenger is still sweetly slumbering,
unconscious of any movement.
In summer, however, the river is the happy hunting-ground of flies
and mosquitoes, the result being that rest and sleep are impossible
either by day or night. In a storm, too, the keleq is not a very secure
place of refuge. An English lady travelling from Mosul to Baghdad
was once caught in a hurricane and her keleq blown about in such a
way that she expected every minute to find herself precipitated into
the river, while her little hut and all its contents were saturated
through and through with water.
A raft is a good target for the Arabs whose villages lie along the
banks of the river. An Englishman once placed his bicycle, which he
was taking home, on the top of his hut, thinking to keep it out of
harm's way. The Arabs, seeing this extraordinary-looking machine,
at once came to the conclusion that it was a Maxim gun or some such
deadly weapon. They immediately opened fire, and continued shooting
till the raft was out of sight--fortunately with no serious result.
The French Consul at Mosul was also attacked by Arabs when travelling
on a keleq. For seven hours they kept up an active fusilade, both
parties making good use of their guns.
The merchants of Mosul use these rafts for exporting their goods to
Baghdad and other places. After the harvest enormous keleqs may daily
be seen leaving Mosul, loaded heavily with wheat and corn. All goods
for the south are exported in this way. For these large commercial
rafts, about three to four hundred skins are used, while others contain
from fifty to two hundred, according to the size of raft and number of
passengers. A European travelling alone would need about one hundred
and fifty to two hundred skins to make a fairly comfortable raft.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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