Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
The Arabs are very hospitable people, and were often profuse in their
invitations for us to eat with them. I have once or twice joined the
women in sitting round a big cauldron full of "borghol" (crushed corn
boiled with plenty of fat) and dipping with them into the one dish, and
thoroughly enjoyed it. When you have a desert appetite it is possible
to enjoy anything. Once my husband and I accepted an invitation to a
meal with an Arab, and were regaled with chicken boiled with a green
vegetable called "barmiya," and pillau. Our host would not eat with us,
but employed himself brushing the flies away from the food as we ate.
The Arab dance is a very weird performance to watch. The men and women
all join hands, and shuffle with their feet, at the same time working
every muscle of the body in a most grotesque fashion. As they warm
to the dance they get very much excited, yelling and shouting in a
frantic manner.
These Arabs are the dreaded robbers of the desert, and our guard always
impressed upon us, when travelling, what a dangerous set of people they
were. Every speck on the horizon is magnified into a probable Arab;
and if by chance one is met in the desert, the excitement is great. On
one occasion we were riding in a very lonely spot when suddenly an Arab
horseman rode into view. Immediately our gallant guard swooped down
upon the unfortunate man, asking him what he meant by spying upon our
movements, for they did not think it possible that he would be there
alone if it were not for that object. The Arab assured us he had no
such intentions, but had only come to meet a friend whom he believed
to be in our caravan. However, our escort would not credit his story,
so took him prisoner till we had safely passed the dangerous part,
and then allowed him to return. We could not help wondering whether,
if there had been twenty Arabs instead of one, our guard would have
been so brave.
Another time we were crossing a huge track of waterless desert,
said to be infested with marauding Arab tribes, when suddenly we
saw the escort becoming highly excited, waving their guns about,
preparatory to galloping off. Before we had time to ask what it
was all about they were off. We were then driving in a carriage,
so making inquiries from our driver were assured it was nothing,
only he pointed ominously to a long black line seen far away in the
distance. Our servant assured us this was the shadow of the mountain,
but this was only said to reassure us in case we felt alarmed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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