Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
When I first went to Persia I found the questions of the women most
disconcerting, but after a time, if their conversation became too
objectionable, I always told them it was not our custom to talk on
such subjects, and they generally took the hint, at any rate for the
time being. When in Kerman I started an "At Home" for Moslem ladies,
and in this way I got to know some of them very well, and also by
visiting them in their homes. They quite liked the idea of an "At Home"
day, and I well remember our first one. About twenty ladies came, each
one attended by a slave or two and a small boy to guard their shoes,
which of course they left at the door. It was quite a business unrobing
all these ladies from their black silk "chuddars," and arranging each
lady in her respective place, according to the honour due to her. We
had in our drawing-room a long divan, about 12 feet by 6, occupying
the whole of one end of the room, and cushioned according to Eastern
ideas. On this about twelve of the ladies seated themselves and looked
very comfortable and at ease, while the rest sat on chairs arranged
round the room, and looked most uncomfortable and uneasy. By-and-by
I noticed first one foot being tucked up and then another, till most
of the ladies were sitting native fashion on their chairs, and it
looked so curious I could hardly keep from smiling. After all were
settled, and their chuddars and veils carefully folded up and put
aside by the slaves, then the kalian or water-pipe was brought in,
each slave preparing the pipe for her own mistress.
I had arranged that my woman-servant, Bagi, should hand round tea,
but the ladies were horrified at the idea of taking tea which had been
poured out by a Parsee, as they believed it would make them unclean
for I don't know how long; so my poor Bagi had to take a back seat
and see others take her place. My next "At Home" day I was wiser, and
secured the services of the mother of our syce, who was a Moslem, as I
did not like to see a strange woman doing the honours of the tea-table.
Amongst the ladies that day was the wife of one of the ex-governors of
Kerman, and the good lady did not let any one forget that fact! They
were always most interested in seeing and hearing all about Feringhi
life, and were specially interested in photographs and pictures. One
lady said to me directly she was seated, "I want to see a picture of
Jesus Christ;" and on my showing her one, she most reverently kissed
it and put it to her forehead. They much enjoyed listening to our
little organ, and one lady was so delighted that she gave her husband
no peace till he bought her one, and then nothing would satisfy her
but I must go and teach her how to play. As her instrument arrived
from Teheran with half its notes missing, it is easy to imagine
that her musical talent (?) was somewhat put to the test. However,
she was very proud of her instrument, and quite happy playing with
one finger an accompaniment to some weird Persian song.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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