Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
Kouyunjik is now a favourite place for picnics from Mosul, and in
the early spring a day spent amongst the old ruins of Nineveh is
very delightful. It is too hot in summer, as there is no shade. From
the top of the mounds we have a beautiful view of Mosul, with the
Tigris in the foreground and the mountains stretching away on either
side. It is not considered safe for any one to wander about alone on
the mounds; the natives will never go there alone after dusk. Some
years ago two Europeans who were passing through Mosul visited Nineveh
by themselves. As they were rambling over the old remains, one said
to his companion, "I am going round there," indicating a projecting
piece of marble. His companion waited and waited, and as his friend
did not return went in search of him, but not a sign of him could
be seen. After seeking in every possible place without success, he
returned to Mosul to institute a search party, but all efforts proved
fruitless, and to this day nothing has been discovered as to the fate
of this man. Whether he fell down some disused shaft or was carried
off by Arabs is not known, and probably will always remain a mystery.
Mosul is connected with Nineveh by an old bridge of boats, which
probably existed in the days of Jonah. There are twenty-one or
twenty-two of these old-fashioned flat-bottomed boats, fastened
together by heavy chains, a platform of wood being laid from boat
to boat and the whole covered with earth. This part of the bridge is
movable, and is connected at one end with the mainland by a permanent
stone bridge consisting of thirty-three arches. In the spring, when
the rush of water is very strong consequent upon the snow melting in
the mountains, it is loosened at one end and allowed to swing with
the current. Sometimes, however, the river rises suddenly, carrying
the bridge away and playing havoc with the banks. When this takes
place it is very difficult to replace the bridge. Often for weeks
together the bridge is not open, and all traffic across the river has
to be conveyed by boats, the owner of the ferries reaping a golden
harvest. The toll of the bridge is taken by a man who rents it from
the Government. He is said to be one of the richest men in Mosul. Foot
passengers are allowed to pass freely, but all four-footed beasts have
a small charge levied on them ranging from a halfpenny to twopence,
and carriages are charged half a mejideh (1s. 8d.). As some thousands
of camels, mules, and donkeys are continually passing to and fro,
it is no wonder that the toll-collector is a rich man.
I am not at all fond of riding across this bridge; it is not very
wide, and camels jostle you on one side with their huge burdens,
donkeys and mules vie with each other in trying to pass on the other,
quite oblivious of the fact that there is no room; while underneath
the river rushes madly on. Altogether, I always heave a sigh of relief
when the opposite bank is safely reached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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