The operation of making this light beer is amazingly quick, the
malt is mashed one day, brewed and cooled the next, fermented for
forty-eight hours, and drunk the fourth morning. That for immediate use
is fermented in the barrel _on its end_, a practice unusual in this
country, but which M. Behr conceived advantageous. A chime, rather
deeper than usual, served to retain on the top, the barm and the
liquid forced up by the expansion of the fermentation, which, as the
process declined, retired again to its place, thus keeping constantly
an ascending and descending current, which facilitated the operation,
beside being more cleanly and costing less labour. Every different
district in Belgium produces a different kind of beer, which, curiously
enough, cannot be successfully imitated by the others, thus the brewers
of Brussels have not succeeded in producing the _uytzet_ of Ghent, nor
those of Ghent the yellow _faro_ which is the favourite beverage of
Brussels, whilst both have failed to rival the “white beer” of Louvain.
The great lion of Louvain is its Town Hall, which is certainly the most
surprisingly rich specimen of gothic architecture in the world. It
is literally covered with most elaborate and intricate carvings from
the foundation to the roof. Charles V spoke of placing the Cathedral
of Antwerp under a glass shade, but actually one is inclined to wish
for something of the kind to keep the dust from discolouring the
florid tracery of the Hôtel de Ville at Louvain. It is situated in a
little ancient square in which Marshal Villeroy held a council of war
by torch-light on the night of the Battle of Ramilies, in 1706. The
building itself, which is of the fifteenth century, is small, but its
proportions and ornaments are of the most delicate elegance. It has no
tower, but the heaviness of its lofty roof is relieved by turrets at
the corners. The whole front is covered with bas-reliefs, representing
the history of and the destruction of the Cities of the Plain, with
more fidelity than is reconcileable to modern taste. The whole has
for many years been undergoing a thorough restoration, which is now
complete, every decayed piece of stone being accurately replaced by a
fac-simile of the original carved work. The interior is not suitable to
the beauty of the outside, and an old hall on the third story is fitted
up as a gallery, with a wretched collection of pictures, which are
libellously ascribed to the old masters. There is, however, a gallery
in Louvain of high repute, that of M. Vanderschreick, which contains
a number of superb paintings of the Dutch school, Rubens, Teniers,
Vandyke, Rembrandt, and, in short, a specimen of all its best masters.
It is accessible to strangers, and since the dispersion of M. Schamp’s
pictures at Ghent, is, perhaps, the best collection in Belgium.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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