The churches in Louvain, notwithstanding the long presence of so
many luminaries of the establishment, are not eminent for either
their riches or their beauty. The Collegiate Church of St. Pierre,
which is the principal one, has a superbly carved pulpit by Berger of
great height--a rock crowned with trees, and at its foot, St. Peter
on one side denying Christ, and at the other, Saul struck from his
horse on his way to persecute the Christians of Damascus. A little
chapel at the back of the altar is dedicated to St. Margaret, the
saint of maid-servants, and is connected with a curious little legend
illustrative of the times. _Margrietje_ was the domestic of an old
couple, who kept an hostelry for pilgrims in the year 1225, at Louvain.
Her master and his wife had resolved to retire from the world, and had
converted all their property into money, with which they were about to
retire into the monastery of St. Bernard. On the eve of their putting
this plan into execution, however, some miscreants formed a conspiracy
to assassinate them, and, disguising themselves as pilgrims, came late
in the evening to seek for shelter at the accustomed inn. The good
old people anxious to perform their last act of charity, sent Margaret
to bring wine in a wooden bottle, still preserved in the church. The
pretended pilgrims then strangled their hosts, and on Margaret’s
return, she shared a similar fate. Her body, however, which they
carried out and precipitated into the Dyle, instead of sinking in the
river, floated back against the stream crowned with an aureole, and
the ripple of the water making sweet music as it bore her along. The
Duke and Duchess of Brabant astonished at the miracle, caused a chapel
to be built for her remains at the back of the great church of St.
Pierre, where her body was embalmed and enclosed in a gilded shrine.
The fame and the fidelity of the interesting saint attracted crowds of
devotees to her tomb, and in time the door upon the street was closed,
and another opened from the church, where the chapel and the altar of
Margrietje are still the favourite resort of the serving maidens of
Brabant.
The church of Saint Michel, which once belonged to the order of the
Jesuits, was one of the most sumptuous in the city: it has, however,
been dismantled of all its ornaments, and its superbly carved pulpit
was removed by Maria Theresa to the Church of St. Gudule at Brussels.
During the reign of the French republic, St. Michel’s was converted
into the Temple of Reason for the district, and the statue of the
Saviour was removed from the altar to make room for the Goddess of
Liberty. The tomb of Justus Lipsius in the old ruined convent of the
Recollets, with its sententious inscription written by himself, is a
curious illustration of “the pride that apes humility.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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