We left Brussels this morning for Namur through the forest of Soigné
and across the field of Waterloo. The forest is thick with young
straight trees; and any thing but picturesque. The timber is chiefly
beech with oak and elm intermixed, and the trees are very densely
planted, with a view, we were told, to render the wood loose and moist
being withdrawn from the hardy action of the air, in order that when
felled and cut into lengths it may the more readily split, which the
beech does almost spontaneously. The foresters live in huts dispersed
throughout the forest; and along the edge of the road were long piles
of cleft wood ready for transport to Brussels. On the road we passed
several waggons laden with coals from Charleroi, and after emerging
from the forest we reached the village of Waterloo, which is situated
almost upon its outskirts. We visited the church with its numerous
monuments to the “unreturning brave,” and were solicited by some
ecclesiastical official for a contribution to the fund _for keeping
them in order_. At Mont St. Jean we had a most comfortable breakfast
at the little inn, and being waited on by Sergeant Cotton of the 7th
Hussars, the guide who seems to have most successfully taken the place
of Da Costa, we walked with him to the various positions on the field.
One has really no patience with the great hulking mountain of sand on
which the Iron Lion is raised as a trophy of the valour of the “Braves
Belges!” Some one has observed that the pretension of the monuments
at Waterloo are precisely in the inverse ratio of the importance of
the services they commemorate; the English have none, the Prussians a
modest record, and the Belgians a pyramid! on which, as the Brussels
guide book magniloquently points out “the Lion of Belgian proudly paws
the bolt of war, with his head turned towards vanquished France, as
if to menace her with vengeance and teach her the homage which is
due to valour!” But it is not the gasconade of this ambitious trophy
that irritates one so much as the fact, that in order to scrape the
earth together, out of which it is heaped up, the whole surface of the
field has been disturbed and its identity destroyed; and that, at the
most interesting spot, where the British guards made their immoveable
and immortal stand “from day-break till set of sun” against all the
chivalry of France. The mischievous vanity, which has thus destroyed
what it pretends to commemorate, has something very _Irish_ in it, and
is not altogether without a parallel. Some years since a remnant of a
very ancient castle of the chiefs of the clan O’Neil, which stood upon
the summit of the hill of Castlereagh in the estate of the late Marquis
of Downshire, was fast crumbling away, owing to the injury which
it received from the cattle who browsed about it, and his Lordship
directed that a wall should be built round it to save it from utter
destruction. The labourers, however, who were sent for the purpose,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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