The country, as we approach the banks of the Meuse and the Sambre,
becomes at every step more and more picturesque, and the dull
monotonous plains of Brabant are exchanged for the woody hills and
precipitous valleys of Namur. I never saw a more charming prospect,
nor one which is so truly refreshing to an eye ennuied with the
tiresome monotony of Flemish scenery, than the first view which is
obtained of the old town and fortress of Namur, from the heights
above the Sambre, in coming from Temploux--a wide and winding valley,
with the rapid river toiling below between towering cliffs of rugged
rock upon the one hand, and steep banks covered with foliage, and
occasionally crowned with old chateaux, upon the other; and in the
distance, the bridges, towers, and steeples of the warlike old city,
with its renowned, and once thought impregnable fortress, rising
terrace upon terrace, and bristling with artillery above it.
We drove down the steep hill to the river under a glowing sunset,
and having crossed the hollow drawbridge and traversed the tortuous
passages that lead from the outward fortifications to the heart of the
city, we took up our quarters for the night, at the Hotel de Harscamp,
in a starved little square, that seemed to have been grudgingly crimped
off the already pinched and narrowed streets. It was still light
enough for a stroll round the fortifications, but we soon discovered
that it required the acumen of some future Sir William Gell or
Claudius Rich, to determine the precise spot, which we were in search
of--namely, that at which my Uncle Toby received his memorable wound,
in the attack made by the Dutch and English, “upon the point of the
advanced counterscarp before the gate of St. Nicholas, which enclosed
the great sluice or water-stop,” and which he himself declares to have
been, “in one of the traverses about thirty toises from the returning
angle of the trench opposite to the salient angle of the demi-bastion
of Saint Roche.”
The citadel which stands directly above the town is constructed upon
the shelves of a stupendous rocky escarpment, that rises almost
perpendicularly from the banks of the river, and looks like the
Gibraltar of the Meuse. It was accurately restored, and its works in
some places extended, by the King of Holland, some few years before the
revolution, but when that event arrived, Namur was amongst the first
places that hoisted the standard of revolt. There seems, in fact, to
have been something between treason and cowardice in the conduct of
the garrisons, who occupied every fortress in Belgium, and who, with
the single exception, I think, of Antwerp, surrendered them to the
“patrioterie” without lighting a match.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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