Of Kerim Khan himself, the writer of his narrative, and of his motives
for daring the perils of the _kala-pani_, (or black water, the Hindi
name for the ocean,) on a visit to Franguestan, we have little
information beyond what can be gathered from the MS. itself. There can
be no doubt, however, that he was a Mussulman gentleman of rank and
consideration, and of information far superior to that of his
countrymen in general; nor does it appear that he was driven, like
Mirza Abu-Talib, by political misfortune, to seek in strange climes
the security which his native land denied him. His narrative commences
abruptly:--"On the 21st of Ramazan, in the year of the Hejra 1255,"
(Dec. 1, A.D. 1839,) "between four and five in the afternoon, I took
leave of the imperial city of Delhi, and proceeded to our boat, which
was at anchor near the Derya Ganj." The voyage down the Jumna, to its
junction with the Ganges at Allahabad, a distance of not more than 550
miles by land, but which the endless windings of the stream increase
to 2010 by water, presents few incidents worthy of notice: but our
traveller observes _par parenthèse_, that "though it is said that the
sources of this river have not been discovered, I have heard from
those who have crossed the Himalaya from China, that it rises in that
country on the other side of the mountains, and, forcing its way
through them, arrives at Bighamber. They say that gold is found there
in large quantities, and the reason they assign is this--the
philosopher's stone is found in that country, and whatever touches it
becomes gold, but the stone itself can never be found!" Near Muttra he
encountered the splendid cortège of Lord Auckland, then returning to
Calcutta after his famous interview with Runjeet Singh at Lahore, with
such a _suwarree_ as must have recalled the pomp and _sultanut_ for
which the memory of Warren Hastings is even yet celebrated among the
natives of India: "his staff and escort, with the civil and military
officers of government in attendance on him, amounted to about 4000
persons, besides 300 elephants and 800 camels." The noble buildings of
Akbarabad or Agra, the capital and residence of Akbar and Shalijehan,
the mightiest and most magnificent of the Mogul emperors, detained the
traveller for a day; and he notices with deserved eulogium the
splendid mausoleum of Shalijehan and his queen, known as the
Taj-Mahal. There is nothing that can be compared with it, and those
who have visited the farthest parts of the globe, have seen nothing
like it.[7] At Allahabad he launched on the broad stream of the
Ganges; and after passing through part of the territory of _Awadh_ or
Oude, the insecurity of life and property in which is strongly
contrasted with the rigid police in the Company's dominions, arrived
in due time at the holy city of Benares, the centre of Hindoo and
Brahminical sanctity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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