Leicester Square, as Mr Smith justly observes, has more the
appearance of the _Grande Place_ of some continental city than of
a London square. The headquarters and chief rendezvous of aliens,
especially of Frenchmen, it bears numerous and unmistakeable marks
of its foreign occupancy. French hotels and restaurants replace
taverns and chop-houses. French names are seen above shops;
promises of French, German, and Spanish conversation, are read in
the windows; and grimy-visaged, hirsute individuals, in plaited
pantaloons and garments of eccentric cut, saunter, cigar in mouth,
over the shabby pavement. It is curious to remark the different
tone and station taken by English in Paris and French in London.
In the former capital, nothing is too good for the intruding
islanders. In the best and most expensive season, they throng
thither, and strut about like lords of the soil, perfectly at home,
and careless of the opinions of the people amongst whom they have
condescended to come. The best houses are for their use; the most
expensive shops are favoured with their custom; and if occasionally
tormented by a troublesome consciousness of paying dearly for
their importance, they easily console themselves by a malediction
on the French _voleurs_, who thus take advantage of their long
purses and open hands. How different is it with the Frenchman in
London! He comes over, for the most part, at the dullest time of
the year, in the autumn, when the town is foggy, and dreary, and
empty; when the Parks are deserted, shutters shut, the theatres
dull, and exhibitions closed. He has certain vague apprehensions of
the tremendous expense entailed by a visit to the English capital.
To avoid this, he makes a toil of a pleasure; wearies himself with
economical calculations; and creeps into some inferior hotel or dull
lodging-house, tempted by low prices and foreign announcements.
We find French deputies abiding in Cranbourn Street, and counts
contenting themselves with a garret at Pagliano's. Thence they
perambulate westwards; and ignorant, or not choosing to remember,
that London is out of town, and that they have selected the very
worst possible season to visit it, they greatly marvel at the
paucity of equipages, at the abundance of omnibuses and hack-cabs,
and the scarcity of sunbeams; and return home to inform their
friends that London is a _ville monstre_, with spacious streets,
small houses, few amusements; very great, but very gloomy; and
where the nearest approach to sunshine resembles the twinkling of a
rushlight through a plate of blue earthenware.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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