Germany has caught the St Vitus
of revolution, and danced off, if not as distractedly, at all events in
less connected step, and less defined figure, than its neighbour: and in
this revolutionary frenzy Germany has assumed so ungenial an aspect—a
manner so doubtful, so unpromising, so uncertain, as regards the next
step it may be inclined to take in the jerkings of its abrupt and
unregulated dance—that the gentle tourist-seekers of ease and pleasure
have turned away in disgust from this heavy Meg Merrilees, who has
forgotten even her scraps of song, and her long-pretended spirit of
romance, and declined to visit her until she shall have somewhat
recovered from her drunken fit of revolution, and become more decently
behaved. The Rhine, then, has lost the last charm of foreign bustle and
movement, with which he decked his old head, as with a crown of wild
flowers, not unbecoming his gray hairs. He looks sad, sober,
discontented, disappointed, mourning his lost old joys, and his lost
glories, of which young Germany, in its revolutionary excitement, has
despoiled him. His hotels are empty; landlords, too, have a forlorn air,
and take to rattling their last _groschen_ in their pockets; and unhappy
waiters get fat upon their inactivity, but, at the same time, pale with
ill-humour at their diminished _trinkgelder_, and apprehension of losing
their places altogether. Travellers’ visits have grown, like those of
angels, “few and far between;” and as angels do the poor scanty tourists
appear to be regarded—as munificent beings, in fact, from whom too much
cannot be demanded and expected; for the Rhenish hotel-keepers, in
pursuance of the system adopted by Parisian shopkeepers, in these days
of revolutionary scarcity and destitution, seem determined to make those
unhappy beings, who fall into their clutches, redeem the debt they
appear to consider due to them from those absent tourists, who have not
come to enjoy all the splendours prepared for them. Since Germany, with
its newborn cry for imperial unity, has appeared inclined to turn back
again, in new revolutionary spirit, to old feudal times, the Rhenish
hotel-keepers seem to think that they ought to appear in the characters
of the old robber-knights. This consideration, perfectly personal to a
poor tourist, who has lately paid his _löse-geld_ at many a modern
robber’s stronghold on the Rhine, brings him round, however, to the
question which he has been putting to himself, at every step he has been
taking in Germany—“What would revolutionising Germany be at?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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