commencing an immediate perambulation of the house and premises, in
search of anything she could pick up. This sometimes brought her into
odd positions, and gave us trouble.
Where are we? Oh, loading the money for our start from Oyarzun. Just as
I was coming out of the court-yard, a soldier entered it, with a look of
execration, muttering. Didn’t at all like appearances, when I got into
the road. All the men looked sulky; the muleteers, perfectly vicious.
The loading was going on, but without method, and not by any means with
despatch. Of all the party, the only man that didn’t show ill blood was
Corporal Fraser. He was doing his best, but looked serious, and somewhat
nonplussed. The cause of all was soon apparent. The captain, for some
reason or other, had worked himself into a perfect fury, to which he was
giving expression in a regular stream of abuse and imprecations;
discharging it indiscriminately on the muleteers and the escort, in
Portuguese, Spanish, and English, as though he had rifled and ransacked
the vocabularies for every bullying and blasphemous expression in the
three languages. He had already got matters into a little bit of a
mess—was ordering, counter-ordering—bothering the whole party out of
their wits—in short, obstructing everything, and thereby indefinitely
delaying our departure. This particularly enraged the muleteers: for you
must know, first, they take the packing upon themselves, understand
their business, and like to be let alone at it; secondly, they have a
notion that nothing ruins their mules like keeping a beast standing,
when once he has got his load on his back; and some of the first loaded
were a couple of hours in this predicament, before we got off. We
started at last, and passed through Oyarzun in no very military order:
soldiers, mules, and muleteers, all jumbled together, like beef, pork,
onions, and mutton-chops, in a Saturday’s pie. Fraser’s smartness saved
us more than once from a jam, as we threaded the narrow street; and at
length we emerged on the high road to St Jean de Luz.
Although, in our transition to French from Spanish ground, we mounted
not to the regions of perpetual snows, we did certainly pass over some
very high ground, both before and after crossing the Bidassoa; and our
second elevation gave us a splendid prospect of the fertile plains of
France. “Shan’t want for nothing to eat, sir,” said Jones, “when we gits
down there, sir. Shocking bad country, Spain, for poor soldiers, sir.
Starvation country, I calls it, sir. Nothing but lean ration beef, as
tough as hides, sir; and couldn’t always get that, sir. Dreadful hard
work up these hills, sir. Got a bullet in my leg, sir.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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