Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Vol. 67, No. 416, June 1850Various
General
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Vol. 67, No. 416, June 1850
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
But we must get on to Constantinople. Often as the magnificent
spectacle has been described that bursts upon the view as you round
Seraglio Point and glide into the Golden Horn, it yet would seem
affected or eccentric of a traveller who writes about Constantinople
were he to neglect recording the impression made upon him by that
singularly lovely panorama. Mr Albert Smith's description is to
the purpose, and we like it the better for the complete absence of
that magniloquence in which so many tourists have indulged when
discoursing upon the beauties of Stamboul. Probably no city in the
world presents so great a contrast as Constantinople, when seen from
a short distance and when examined in detail. Floating on the blue
waters of the Bosphorus, the wondering stranger gazes upon a fairy
spectacle of domes, and minarets, and cypress groves, of graceful
palaces and stately mosques, gilded wherries and gaily-attired
crowds. A few minutes elapse: the grave custom-house officials in
their handsome barge have received the sixpenny bribe which exempts
his luggage from examination; he lands at the Tophanné Stairs, and
enters the steep lane that leads up to Pera, and in an instant the
illusion is dissipated:--
"I felt," says Mr Smith, who readily avails himself, and in
this instance very happily, of a theatrical comparison, "that
I had been taken behind the scenes of a great 'effect.' The
Constantinople of Vauxhall Gardens, a few years ago, did not
differ more, when viewed in front from the gallery and behind
from the dirty little alleys bordering the river. The miserable,
narrow, ill-paved thoroughfare did not present one redeeming
feature--even of picturesque dreariness. The roadway was paved
with all sorts of ragged stones, jammed down together without
any regard to level surface; and encumbered with dead rats,
melon-rinds, dogs, rags, brickbats, and rubbish, that had fallen
through the mules' baskets, as they toiled along it. The houses
were of wood--old and rotten; and bearing traces of having been
once painted red. There was, evidently, never any attempt made
to clean them, or their windows or doorways. Here and there,
where a building had been burnt, or had tumbled down, all the
ruins remained as they had fallen. Even the better class of
houses had an uncared-for, mouldy, plague-imbued, decaying
look about them; with grimy lattices instead of windows, on
the upper stories, and dilapidated shutters and doors on the
ground-floors."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive