Five roads of leading interest (besides many a cheering byway
among the hills) branch out from the walls of Beyrout. Damascus is
about eighteen hours off; Jerusalem six days; Djouni, the romantic
residence and burial-place of Lady Hester Stanhope, ten hours;
Baalbec, the flower of all Eastern ruins, eighteen hours, and
Latakia, whither _we_ are bound, five days. These distances may be
accomplished in less time; they are here given at the calculation
of a walking pace, as the roads, or rather paths, are for the most
part steep and difficult; and the baggage-horses, at all events,
can seldom advance more rapidly. One word more of dry detail, and
we shall put ourselves _en route_ for the mountains of the Ansayrii
and the further East. Notwithstanding the advance of civilisation at
Beyrout, where a European consulocracy has established a more than
European equality of privileges between Turks and Christians, the
interior of the country is daily becoming more dangerous to travel
in. Eight years ago, when the stern rule of Ibrahim Pasha had still
left its beneficent traces, the writer of this article wandered over
the length and breadth of the land, attended by a single servant
and a muleteer. Since our Government, for inscrutable reasons,
has restored Syria to the embroilment of its native factions, all
security for the traveller, and indeed for the native, has ceased.
To reach Jerusalem, or even Damascus, in safety, a considerable
escort is now necessary; though the Vale of Baalbec may still be
reached in less warlike fashion from Latakia or Tripoli, if the
traveller is endowed with liberality, courage, and courtesy--the
leading virtues of his profession.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account