We have unwillingly passed over the whole of our author's outward
voyage, which is graphically, and almost dramatically, described.
We shall only refer to one or two passages respecting the Levant.
The following sentence may dispel some fanciful visions of the sunny
climate of Stamboul:--
"Snow, 'thick and deep' enveloped the city; cupola, dome,
and cypress were burdened with icicles; above, was an angry
winter sky with a keenly piercing wind.... English fires and
English coals were the best things we saw--we were actually
blockaded by the weather.... At length we embarked: the crew
were shovelling the deep snow-drift off the deck, so we rushed
below into a cabin whose bulkheads were beautifully varnished,
sofas perfect, skylights closed, the whole atmosphere tobacco.
We were off, gliding past the Seraglio Point, which was swathed
in snow, and looking like a man in summer clothes caught in a
wintry storm.... Masses animate and inanimate encumbered the
deck; the former for the most part consisting of the Sultan's
subjects; among the latter our baggage, which was thrown into
the general heap, and kicked about until it found quiet in the
hold.... The numbers thus congregated were principally pilgrims,
on their way to Jerusalem and to the Jordan; though others, on
more worldly journey bent, were mingled with the rest. Each
family had taken a spot on the deck, and there, piled over with
coverings, and surrounded with their goods, they remained during
the voyage: one side of the after-deck was alone kept clear for
the first-class passengers, and even this was often invaded by
others, who wisely remarked that _we_ had cabins below.
"Each family forms a scene in itself; and an epitome of life
in the East is found by a glance around. Four merchants, on
their return from a trading tour, have bivouacked between the
skylights; and they sing and are sick; call _kief_[13] and
smoke, with true Moslem indifference. On the starboard quarter,
our notions of Eastern domesticity are sadly put out, for there
a Moslem husband is mercilessly bullied by a shrill-voiced
Houri. It is curious to observe her perseverance in covering
her face, even during the agonies of sea-sickness. Their black
servant has taken us into the number of licensed ones, and her
veil now hangs over her neck like a loosened neck-cloth.
[13] _Kief_: a word difficult to translate, but expressing
perfect abandonment to repose; a _dolce far niente_ which only
Orientals can thoroughly achieve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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