On the 2d of May we start for the Euphrates, and follow for some
time nearly the route recommended by Colonel Chesney for the great
Indian railway to Bussora, on the Persian Gulph. The distance is
little more than 800 miles--scarcely thirty steam-winged hours--the
level surpassingly uniform. Truly those who desire to find either
solitude, or what our author calls _kief_, in the East, must
repair thither quickly, for the iron of the engineer has already
entered into its soul. Already the blue and white rivers of the
Nile are more easily attainable than were the Tiber and the Po to
our grandfathers. Beyrout and Latakia will soon be fashionable
watering-places; Baalbec as well known as Melrose Abbey; and the
excavated ruins of Nimroud will come under the range of "return
tickets." The grim Arab will look out from any quiet spot that the
all-searching Cockney may have spared him; and he will gaze with
wonder on the awful processions of the "devil-goaded" tourists, as
they rush with magic speed across his wilderness--only to retrace
their steps. The Turk, at the utmost bounds of the Othman Empire,
will marvel at this new freak of _kismet_ (destiny;) with a sigh
he will abandon his beloved _bockra_ (the "to-morrow" in which he
loves to live;) and commending himself to Islam, or resignation in
its most trying form, he will "jump in" like the mere Giaours, and
be hurled along with the rest across the desert behind the Afreet
stoker.
But at present the wilderness knows nothing of all this, and we have
before us the scenery of other days as Abram beheld it. We now cross
the Chalus River, and enter upon a series of vast plains, varied by
mysterious _tels_ or mounds, rising up from the level surface like
bubbles on a pool. On, or among these, the ever restless Turkomans
pitch their tents, and welcome the traveller kindly to their
wandering homes. On the third day from Aleppo we reach Aintab, on
the river Sadschur, "which, fresh and young, danced brightly on, as
if eager to join the Euphrates and see the wide world beyond."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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