"The waters of the lake have lately been analysed, so the
curious substance found floating on its surface, and used as
soap, will be accounted for: it is sold in the bazaars. At
present there are but three small boats or launches on the lake,
and even these can hardly find trade enough to remunerate them.
Their principal occupation is carrying passengers to the towns
on the coast."
Mr Layard remained at Lake Van in order to copy some inscriptions;
but Mr Walpole was induced to penetrate northward as far as
Patnos, where no European had yet been seen. Here his enterprise
was rewarded by the view of some magnificent scenery, and the
more important discovery of some cuneiform, and many ancient
Armenian inscriptions. These were forwarded by our traveller to
Mr Layard, and will doubtless appear in his forthcoming work.[16]
But we must now leave Koordistan, recommending the perusal of
Mr Walpole's chapter on the Christians of Lake Van, and their
beautiful and mysterious inland sea, to all who love to picture to
themselves strange lands and wild adventure. We return by way of
Erzeroum, Trebizond, the shores of the Black Sea, and Sansoun, to
Constantinople; thence to Latakia; and here we find ourselves within
view of the mountains of the mysterious Ansayrii and Ismaylis.
[16] We must here notice the generosity with which Mr Walpole
forbears to enlarge upon any subject in which he might anticipate
the works of other travellers. For this reason he passes lightly
over this interesting tour in the mountains of Koordistan, and
only (to our regret) alludes _en passant_ to a tribe of _pastoral_
Jews, whom he and Mr Layard met on these mountains, following the
spring (as the snows receding left fresh herbage for their flocks)
up the mountains. When we consider how rarely pastoral Jews are met
with, and that this was the very land wherein the lost ten tribes
disappeared, and, moreover, that the elders of these people spoke
the Chaldean tongue, we are much disappointed to hear no more of
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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