The Sultan and his suite were attired in the reformed costume—in blue
frocks of Polish cut, red trousers, and the red fez, with its abundant
blue tassel drooping over it on all sides. Scarcely had they ridden out
of sight when a group of very different character and appearance issued
from the chief gate of the mosque, gathering on its way far more
demonstrations of popularity than did Abdul Meschid and his Kisslar Aga.
It was composed of Turkish priests and doctors—_Ulemas_, with their
_Mufti_ at their head—all in the old Turkish garb, with ample turbans
and huge beards. The sympathy of the people with these representatives
of the old régime was expressed by far lower bows, by more fervent
pressure of hand on heart, than had greeted the Sultan’s passage. The
holy men looked kindly upon the crowd, amongst whom the Mufti
occasionally threw small coins, which naturally augmented his
popularity, and secured him many followers and good wishes. Dr Wagner
remarks upon the present contradictory and anomalous state of Turkish
dress. At the festival of the Kurban-Beiram he saw the Sultan and all
the state officials, from the Grand Vizier downwards, in European
uniforms—narrow trousers, gold epaulets, tight-buttoned coats, collars
stiff with embroidery. But at the collar the Frank ceased, and the
Oriental reappeared. There was the long beard, and the brimless fez.
With this last item of costume, the boldest Turkish reformer has not as
yet dared to interfere. The covering of the forehead with a peak or brim
to the cap is an innovation for which the Turks are not yet ripe. It is
considered the outward and visible sign of the Giaour, and a Turk who
should walk the streets of Constantinople in a hat, or in a cap with a
peak, would be stoned by the mob. The prejudice springs from the duty
stringently enjoined upon every true believer, to touch the ground with
his forehead when praying. Hence, to wear a vizard over the brow appears
to the Turk like contempt of a religious law. A bold European in the
service of the Porte advised Sultan Mahmoud to put leathern peaks to his
soldiers’ caps. On duty they would keep off the sun; at prayer-time the
caps might be turned round upon the head. But Mahmoud, passionate
reformer though he was, shrank from offering so deadly an affront to
Turkish fanaticism. Neither did he dare, like Peter the Great, to crop
his subjects’ beards. The well-intended changes which he did introduce
were sufficiently startling, and to many of them, even at the present
day, the nation is scarcely reconciled. In a picturesque point of view,
the new style of dress, intended as the signal of a general change in
Turkish usages and institutions, is anything but an improvement upon the
old one. The physical prestige of the Oriental departed with his flowing
robe, with his shawls and his rich turban.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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