“These fat-paunched, crooked-legged pashas,” exclaims Dr Wagner, “what
caricatures they appear in their buttoned-up uniforms! Formerly, when
the folds of their wide garments concealed bodily imperfections, the
Turks were held to be a handsome race. Now, in Constantinople, a
handsome man, in the reformed dress, is an exception to the rule. The
Turks of the towns are rarely slender and well-built; and the tall,
muscular figures which one so commonly finds amongst Arabs, Persians,
and Tyrolese, are scarcely ever to be seen in Turkey. Neither do we see
in Turkish cities anything to remind us of the fine knightly figures of
the Circassians—although, from the female side, so much Circassian blood
runs in the veins of the higher classes of Turks. The indolent manner of
life, the bringing up of boys in the harem until the age of puberty, too
early indulgence in tschibouk-smoking and coffee-drinking, and premature
excesses of another kind, have all contributed to enervate and degrade
an originally vigorous and handsome race.”
In the whole Beiram procession, Dr Wagner declares, there were, besides
Riza Pasha, but two handsome men amongst all the Turks of the higher
class there present. Of the numerous array of officers and soldiers, it
was but here and there that he saw one tolerably well-made, and athletic
figures were still more rarely observable. Worse than any looked the
debilitated Sultan, cramped in his tight coat, oppressed by his heavy
epaulets and gold lace, his diamonds and his plumes, and leaning
languidly forward on his fine charger. What a contrast with the portrait
of the Emperor Nicholas, which Dr Wagner saw when visiting the summer
seraglio of Kadi-Köi! Opposite to a divan upon which Abdul Meschid was
wont to repose—whilst his tympanum was agreeably tickled by the harmony
of half-a-dozen musical boxes, playing different tunes at the same
time—stood two costly porcelain vases, whereon were painted likenesses
of the Emperor and Empress of all the Russias. They were presents from
Nicholas to the Sultan. “The Emperor’s gigantic and powerful frame and
martial countenance were admirably portrayed. The painter had given him
a mien and bearing as though he were in the act of commanding his
grenadiers. As a contrast, I pictured to myself the Turkish monarch
reposing his feeble frame upon the luxurious velvet divan; the harmless
ruler who prefers ease in his harem to a gallop at the head of his
troops; the trill of his musical boxes, and the flutes of dancing
dervishes, to the clatter of cuirasses and the thunder of
twelve-pounders.” Russia and Turkey are well typified by their rulers.
On the one hand, vigour, energy, and power; on the other, weakness,
decrepitude, and decline. What wonder if, as Dr Wagner relates, the
young Archduke Constantine, when visiting the city that bears his name,
gazed wistfully and hopefully from the lofty gallery of the Galata tower
on the splendid panorama spread before him, as though dreaming that, one
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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