Tabriz, in size the second, in population the first city of the Persian
empire, was the limit of Dr Wagner’s travels in an easterly direction.
Thence he made excursions; and finally, turning his steps southwards,
made the circuit of that extremity of Lake Urumia, and so got back to
Bayasid in Turkish Armenia; so that he visited, in fact, but a nook of
Persia—including, however, one of its most important cities and some
rarely-explored districts. His first visit at Tabriz was to Mr Bonham,
the English consul-general, with whom he found a Maltese physician, Dr
Cassolani—then the only European medical man resident in the place—who
offered him, in the kindest manner, an apartment in his house. Here Dr
Wagner interpolates a gentle stricture on British hospitality in Asia.
Mr Bonham, he says, “was certainly also very obliging, but seemed less
hospitable; and although he had a very roomy house and a very small
family, he, like his colleague, Mr Brant at Erzroum, was not fond of
putting himself out of his way. I confess that I have not formed the
most favourable opinion of English hospitality in the East. My letters
from Lord Aberdeen and Sir Stratford Canning had not the effect which
might have been reasonably expected from the high position of those
statesmen. In Russian Asia, less exalted recommendations generally
procured me a friendly and truly hospitable reception. On better
acquaintance, and after repeated interviews, the dry, thoroughly English
reserve and formal manner gave way, in Mr Bonham, to a certain degree of
amiability. He took a particularly warm interest in my communications
from the Caucasus, and gave me in return valuable information concerning
Persian matters. Mr Bonham was married to a niece of Sir Robert Peel’s,
a beautiful, amiable, and accomplished lady.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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