The little town of Anstruther stands on the side of the Firth,
stretching its lines of grey red-roofed houses closely along the margin
of the water. Sailing past its little quiet home-like harbour, you see
one or two red sloops peacefully lying at anchor beside the pier. These
sloops are always there. If one comes and another goes, the passing
spectator knows it not. On that bright clear water, tinged with every
tint of the rocky bed below—which, in this glistening autumn day, with
only wind enough to ruffle it faintly now and then, looks like some
beautiful jasper curiously veined and polished, with streaks of salt
sea-green, and sober brown, and brilliant blue, distinct and pure below
the sun—these little vessels lie continually, as much a part of the
scene as that grey pier itself, or the houses yonder of the twin towns.
Twin towns there must be, as you learn from those two churches which
elevate their little spires above the congregated roofs. The spires
themselves look as if, up to a certain stage of their progress, they had
contemplated being towers, but, changing their mind when the square
erection had attained the form of a box, suddenly inclined their sides
towards each other, and became abrupt little steeples, whispering to you
recollections of the Revolution Settlement, and the prosaic days of
William and Mary. In one of them—or rather in its predecessor—the gentle
James Melvill once preached the Gospel he loved so well; and peacefully
for two hundred years have they looked out over the Firth, to hail the
boats coming and going to the sea-harvest; peacefully through their
small windows the light has fallen on little children, having the name
named over them which is above all names; and now with a homely
reverence they watch their dead.
A row of houses, straggling here and there into corners, turn their
faces to the harbour. This is called the Shore. And when you follow the
line of rugged pavement nearly to its end, you come upon boats, in every
stage of progress, being mended—here with a great patch in the
side—there resplendent in a new coat of pitch, which now is drying in
the sun. The boats are well enough, and so are the glistering spoils of
the “herring drave;” but quite otherwise is the odour of dried and cured
fish which salutes you in modern Anstruther. Let us say no evil of it—it
is villanous, but it is the life of the town.
Straggling streets and narrow wynds climb a little brae from the shore.
Thrifty are the townsfolk, whose to-morrow, for generations, is but a
counterpart of yesterday. Nevertheless, there have been great people
here—Maggie Lauder, Professor Tennant, Dr Chalmers. The world has heard
of the quiet burghs of East and West Anster.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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