Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Vol. 75, No. 463, May, 1854Various
History
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Vol. 75, No. 463, May, 1854
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
While we are at home discussing with some little sectarian animosity the
subject of State payments to Popish chaplains for our prisons and
military hospitals, it is but fair to this most Catholic country to
mention, that to the 7,368 Protestants the Belgian state-chest pays
yearly 56,000 francs to eleven native pastors and six Church of England
ministers, for salaries and other church expenses—being at the rate of
eight francs for each Protestant in the kingdom. It allows also 7,900
francs to the Jews, or about seven francs a-head. For their religious
liberality the reader will give such credit to the Belgian clergy as he
may think they deserve.
Detained by unforeseen circumstances for a day in Brussels, we witnessed
the honours paid to Prince Napoleon on his entry from Paris, and in the
afternoon were on our way to Cologne. Passing Louvain and Tirlemont in
the dark, we recognised the neighbourhood of Liege only by its
coke-ovens and iron-works, and an hour before midnight reached Cologne.
Cologne, with thy sixty stinks still redolent, even a midnight entrance
reveals to travelling olfactories thy odoriferous presence! As we jogged
along to the Hotel Disch, enjoying alone a luxurious omnibus, the
slumbering memory of long-familiar smells sprung up fresh in our
nostrils, and awoke us to the full conviction that our railway conductor
had made no mistake, and that we were really passing beneath the shadow
of the magnificent cathedral of Cologne.
Early morning saw us pacing the nave of the gigantic pile, admiring anew
its glorious windows, peering into its chapels, glancing hurriedly at
its saintly pictures, turning away both eyes and ears from
unwholesome-looking priests intoning the morning service, admiring the
by-play called “private worship,” which was proceeding at the same
moment in the northern aisle, and offending susceptible un-fee’d
officials by indecent looks, as we stealthily paced the circumference of
the lordly choir. No familiarity can reconcile an English Protestant to
the mummeries of a worship performed before tawdry dolls by the light
even of a dozen penny candles. And the paltriness appears the greater in
a vast pile like this, which itself is but a feeble attempt to do
something adequate to the greatness of Him who dwelleth not in temples
made with hands. This feeling awoke within us in full force as we came,
in our promenade round the church, upon a large side-chapel, with its
Virgin dressed in lace, enclosed in a small glass cupboard, with votive
offerings of waxen limbs and other objects hung up beside it, while
three small candles in dirty sconces burned beneath. And before this
trumpery exhibition knelt and prayed grave men and women, who had passed
the middle of life; and young girls with warm hearts, who had still the
world with all its lures and temptations before them. Pity that hearts
so devout and so susceptible should be so badly directed—that the plain
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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