It was not his first visit to London; and, arriving in the month of
March, he finds the climate as bad, and the great city as dingy and
dirty, as ever. He does not appear to have noticed our painful efforts
to consume our own smoke, or our ambitious designs in modern street
architecture. On the other hand, he mercifully ignores—if he saw it—our
Great Exhibition. The crowded gin-palaces, and the state of the
Haymarket by night, disgust him, as well they might; and he escapes from
the murky Babylon, as soon as he has taken a few lessons to improve his
colloquial English, to pay the promised visit to his friend Mr Norris at
his parsonage at Kingsford; stopping on his way to deliver a letter of
introduction to an English countess, an old friend of his family, who
has a seat close to Lynmere, a sort of pet village, where the ornamented
cottages form a portion of the park scenery.
In his walk from the station, he makes the acquaintance of a “Madame
Jones,” whose cottage, with its wooden paling and scarlet geraniums,
abutting on the pleasant common, has its door invitingly open. He pauses
to admire the little English picture as he passes by. Good Mrs Jones
observes him, and begs him to walk in; partly, we must hope (and we
trust all foreign readers will believe), out of genuine English
hospitality—though we doubt if all village dames in Surrey would take
kindly to a Frenchman on the tramp—partly, it must be confessed, with
the British female’s natural eye to business. “Perhaps Monsieur was
looking out for a ‘_petit logement_?’” For Mrs Jones has two rooms to
let; and even a foreigner’s money, paid punctually, is not to be
despised. Monsieur was looking out for nothing of the kind, but he takes
the rooms forthwith; and indeed any modest-minded gentleman, French or
English, who wanted country board and lodging on a breezy common in
Surrey, could not have done better. Here is what our traveller gets for
twenty-two shillings a-week; we only hope it will stop the mouths of all
foreigners who rail at the dearness of English living, when they read
here the terms on which a _petit logement_ may be found in a pleasant
situation in the home counties—two rooms, “fresh and clean,” comfortably
furnished (with a picture of the Queen and a pot of musk into the
bargain), and board as follows:—
“For breakfast she gave me tea with good milk, excellent
bread-and-butter, accompanied either by a rasher of broiled bacon or
fresh eggs. For dinner there were often ‘_ragouts avec force oignons_’
(Irish stew?), boiled mutton, or sometimes a beef-steak ‘_très-dur_,’
potatoes and boiled cabbage, with a glass of good beer and a bit of
cheese. No dessert, but occasionally a pudding. On Sundays, roast-beef
and plum-pudding were apparently the rule without exception, for they
never failed to appear. The tea in the evening was much the same as
the breakfast. If I had wished for supper, I might have had cold meat,
bread, a lettuce, and a glass of beer.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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