The concluding part, in order of time, of the colonel's lucubrations,
contains his narrative of a voyage on the Ganges, from Allahabad, by
Dhacca, to Calcutta; but the features and incidents of this navigation
have been so frequently described by travellers of all sorts and kinds,
from Bishop Heber and Captain Bellew to our own much-esteemed Kerim Khan,
that we shall devote but brief space to it. He quitted Allahabad, as he
informs us, December 5, 1839, so deeply regretted by the native population,
that they determined to perpetuate his memory by the erection of a new
ghât or landing-place, every brick of which was to be stamped with the
letter D--a distinction which he had, no doubt, deserved by the
_bonhommie_ towards both Hindoo and Moslem, which forms one of the most
favourable traits in the jovial colonel's character. The Tribeenee Ghât,
immediately below Allahabad, where the streams of the Jumna and the Ganges
unite, is one of the holiest spots in India; to which pilgrims resort from
all quarters, in the hope of securing paradise by dying at the junction of
the sacred waters. The spirit of religious exclusiveness prevails here as
well as in other places; and the colonel mentions his having been once an
eyewitness of some rough treatment received by a _chumar_, or
leather-dresser, (one of the lowest castes,) at the hands of some high
caste sepoys, who were highly indignant that so mean a carcass should
presume to defile the holy ground! Leaving the ghâts and devotees behind
him, however, and floating down the stream in his capacious three-roomed
budgerow, he passed Mirzapoor, Chunar, and even the holy city of Benares,
(which he perversely spells Bunarus,) without halting; and reached without
adventure or mishap the mouth of the Goomtee, where his attention was
attracted by a party of eighteen young elephants, the property of the king
of Oude, bathing in the river. "Of all animals, saving the Bundela goat,
there is none that suffers more from change of climate than the elephant:
of the numbers caught on the eastern frontier, probably not one in four
survives a journey to Delhi. Bred in the darkest and most gloomy forests,
they are in a great measure sheltered from heat by the eternal moisture of
the cool shady bower under which they rove; and are then expected to bear
all on a sudden the most intense heat, acting directly on their jet-black
skins, when brought into the plains of Upper India. A very clever native
told me he could make money by any thing but young elephants." Another
curious fact relative to the elephant, mentioned in a subsequent chapter
on the authority of Captain Broadfoot of the Madras commissariat, is, that
both wild and tame elephants are extremely subject to a pulmonary disease,
which proved on dissection to be tubercular--in fact, consumption! It was
found to yield, however, to copious bleedings, if taken in its early
stages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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