"'No, no; the philosophical history. The different stages and vicissitudes
in the existence of those noble quadrupeds.'
"'Oh yes! first the saddle, then a carriage or gig, thence to a
stage-coach or omnibus, hackney-coach or cab, and finally--to the
knacker's.'
"'And from the knacker's?'
"'To the Elysian fields, I suppose.'
"'No. Not here, at least. From the knacker's they go to the _corricoli_.'
"'How so?'
"'I will tell you. At the Ponte della Maddalena, where horses are taken to
be killed, there are always persons waiting, who, when a horse is brought,
buy the hide and hoofs for thirty carlini, which is the price regulated by
law. Instead of killing the horse and skinning him, these persons take him
with the skin on, and make the most of the time he yet has to live. They
are sure of getting the skin sooner or later. And these are what I mean by
dead horses.'
"'But what can they possibly do with the unfortunate brutes?'
"'They harness them to the _corricoli_.'
"'What! those with which I came from Salerno to Naples'--
"'Were the ghosts of horses; spectre steeds, in short.'
"'But they galloped the whole way.'
"'Why not? _Les morts vont vite._'"
_Et cetera, et cetera_. For the price stated by his host, M. Dumas finds
himself possessor of a magnificent _corricolo_ of a bright red colour,
with green trees and animals painted thereon. Two most fiery and impatient
steeds, half concealed by harness, bells, and ribands, are included in his
purchase. After a vain attempt to drive himself, the phantom coursers
having apparently a supreme contempt for whipcord, he gives up the reins
to a professional charioteer, and commences his perambulations. His first
visit is to the Chiaja, the favourite promenade of the aristocracy and of
foreigners; his second to the Toledo, the street of shops and loungers;
his third to the Forcella, frequented by lawyers and their clients. He
makes a chapter, and a long one too, out of each street; but not in the
way usually adopted by those pitiless tour-writers who overwhelm their
readers with dry architectural details, filling a page with a portico, and
a chapter with a chapel--not letting one off a pane of a painted window or
line of worm-eaten inscription however often those things may have been
described already by previous travellers. M. Dumas prefers men to things
as subjects for his pen; and the three chapters above named are filled
with curious illustrations of Neapolitan manners, customs, and character.
Apropos of the Toledo, we are introduced to the well-known _impresario_,
Domenico Barbaja, who had his palazzo in that street, and who, from being
waiter in a coffeehouse at Milan, became the manager of three theatres at
one time, namely, San Carlo, La Scala, and the Vienna opera. He appears to
have been a man of great energy and originality of character, concealing
an excellent heart under the roughest manners and most choleric of tempers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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