"Out of the seventy windows of the hotel, three only had escaped damage.
The ceilings of seven or eight rooms were rent across. There was a crack
extending from top to bottom of the house. Eight shutters had been carried
away, and the servants were running down the street after them, just as
one runs after one's hat on a windy day. The broken glass was swept away;
as for sending for glaziers to mend the windows, it was out of the
question. At Naples nobody thinks of disturbing himself at three in the
morning. Besides, even had new panes been put in, they would soon have
shared the fate of the old ones. We were obliged, therefore, to manage as
well as we could with the shutters. I was tolerably lucky, for I had only
lost one of mine. I went to bed again, and tried to sleep; but a storm of
thunder and lightning soon rendered that impossible, and I took refuge on
the ground-floor, where the wind had done less damage. Then began one of
those storms of which we have no idea in the more northern parts of Europe.
It was accompanied by a deluge such as I had never witnessed, except
perhaps in Calabria. In an instant the Villa Reale appeared to be a part
of the sea; the water came up to the windows of the ground-floor, and
flooded the parlours. A minute afterwards, the servants came to tell M.
Zill that his cellars were full, and his casks of wine floating about and
staving one another. Presently we saw a jackass laden with vegetables come
swimming down the street, carried along by the current. He was swept away
into a large open drain, and disappeared. The peasant who owned him, and
who had also been carried away, only saved himself from a like fate by
clinging to a lamp-post. In one hour there fell more water than there
falls in Paris during the two wettest months in the year.
"Two hours after the cessation of the rain, the water had disappeared, and
I then perceived the use of this kind of deluge. The streets were clean;
which they never are in Naples except after a flood of this sort."
One short anecdote, and we have done. After a long account of St Januarius,
including the well-known miracle of the liquefaction of his blood, and
some amusing illustrations of his immense popularity with the Neapolitans,
M. Dumas, in two pithy lines, gives us the length, breadth, and thickness
of a lazzarone's religion.
"I was one day in a church at Naples," he says, "and I heard a lazzarone
praying aloud. He entreated God to intercede with St Januarius to make him
win in the lottery."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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