to afflict him all the way to Hurdwar; and may probably account, by the
consequent irritation of his temper, for various squabbles in which he was
involved on the route.
The great fair of Hurdwar was in full swing at the colonel's arrival, with
its vast concourse of Hindoo devotees from all parts of India, to whom it
is in itself a spot of peculiar sanctity, besides lying in the way to the
shrine of Gungotree, (the source of the Ganges,) in the Himmalaya--its
crowds of merchants and adventurers of all sorts, even from Uzbek Tartary
and the remote regions of Central Asia--Seiks by thousands from the Punjab,
with their families--Affghan and Persian horse-dealers--and numerous
grandees, both of the Hindoo and Moslem faith, who repair hither as to a
scene of gaiety and general resort. The colonel found quarters in the tent
of a friend employed in the purchase of horses for government, and seems
to have entered with all his heart into the humours of the scene; his
description of which, and of the varied characteristics of the motley
groups composing the half million of human beings present, is one of the
most graphic and picturesque sketches in his work. "Huge heaps of
assafoetida, in bags, from the mountains beyond Cabool--tons of raisins of
various sorts--almonds, pistachio nuts, sheep with four or five
horns--Balkh[8] cats, with long silken hair; of singular beauty--faqueers
begging, and abusing the uncharitable with the grossest and most filthy
language--long strings of elderly ladies, proceeding in a chant to the
priests of the Lingam, to bargain for bodily issue--Ghât priests
presenting their books for the presents and signatures of the European
visitors--groups of Hindoos surrounding a Bramin, who gives each of them a
certificate of his having performed the pilgrimage"--such are a few of the
component parts of the scene; but the colonel's attention seems to have
been principally fixed upon the horses, and the tricks of the _dulals_ or
brokers, to whom the purchase is generally confided, it being almost
hopeless for an European to make a personal bargain with a native dealer.
But among the greatest curiosities in this way were some _tortoiseshell_
ponies--for we can call them nothing else--a peculiar race from Uzbek
Tartary, which we never remember to have heard of before. "They were under
thirteen hands high, and the most curious compound of colours and marks
that can be imagined. Suppose the animal pure, snowy white; cover the
white with large, irregular, light bay spots through which the white is
visible; in the middle of these light bay let there be dark bay marbled
spots; at every six or eight inches plant rhomboidal patches of a very
dark iron-grey; then sprinkle the whole with dark flea-bites! There's a
_phooldar_, ( flower-market,) as they call them;" and we agree with the
colonel that such an animal would be a fortune at Bartlemy fair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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