Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 57, No. 355, May 1845Various
Philosophy
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 57, No. 355, May 1845
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
Any quantity of ornament that might be deemed requisite, could easily be
applied to this kind of coat--so as to make it a fit habiliment for
occasions of ceremony: in its present state, it retains the stiffness of
its military origin, (for it may be called an invention of the Great
Duke's, of him who wore it on the glorious fields of Salamanca and
Waterloo, and it came into fashion at the close of the Peninsular war:)
but it may be embroidered as much as you please, or its stuff may be
varied _ad infinitum_, from Manchester fustian to the finest Genoa velvet.
Not that embroidery is always consonant with good taste, when applied to
male attire. A plain, dark, close-buttoned coat, whether of cloth or
velvet, fastened with a single row of diamond or steel buttons in front,
would be far more effective, as an object of good taste, than if its seams
were all covered with gold lace.
As for the colour of coats, we do not intend to speak of this till we come
to the subject of military costume. We leave it awhile to the taste of the
nation,--colours have always served as marks of national differences. We
beg leave to subjoin a few words in behalf of a poor little garment that
has hardly any grown-up friends to say any thing for it; and which, when
it left school, either went into a manufactory, or was sent to sea--we
mean the jacket. In warm weather, for a country walk, for a ride, for a
game at billiards or cricket, even for shooting, (_experto crede_)--a
jacket is a capital contrivance; while for a sail, whether down the Thames
or up the Mediterranean, it is indispensable. We do not appreciate the
jacket as we ought, or rather we do not remember the good service it did
us at Eton and Harrow--when the limbs were free and supple, and when their
full activity was called into constant play, who would have thought of a
coat? It was only when we began to fancy ourselves men, and to think that
our claims to virility lay in the skirts of our coats, that we discarded
the jacket. 'Twas an ungrateful proceeding:--school friendships ought not
to be broken--and we recommend you, courteous reader, some day or other to
lay your dignity aside for a while, and indulge in the innocent freedom of
a jacket: you will get through any work you have on hand twice as quickly.
The beaux of Queen Elizabeth's and King Jamie's courts wore nothing else
but jackets, you know, with their short mantles hanging in the most
_degage_ manner from the shoulders:--and truly we do not see why a man in
a well-cut jacket, properly decorated, should not be entitled to as much
admiration in his civil capacity, as when he has the honour to hold her
Majesty's commission in the Tenth, and avails himself of that privilege to
disturb the equanimity of the beauty and fashion of England. Much may be
said upon all sides in this matter: the jacket would now be deemed too
familiar without a sword and sabretache; the frock might be considered as
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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