fancy at first that Adalia itself must be invested with the idea of some
peculiar sanctity. But we found that these gentlemen were merely _en
route_, tarrying at Adalia, a great point of embarkation, for
opportunity to pursue their journey. The place is in one of the great
high roads to the Hedjaz: and of the swarms who pass through it every
year, many pilgrims have not sufficient funds to defray the expense of
travelling either way. It then becomes a work of charity for the more
opulent of the faithful to speed them on the journey. But that they
depend on such means of travelling is reason sufficient to account for
long in their line of locomotion, and for their congregating here in
considerable numbers. Of all places likely to maintain the constant
infection of plague, this must be one of the first: for notoriously
among no people is the disease so rife as among the pilgrims.
The worthy consul did his best to embellish the days of our sojourn with
pleasurable episodes. Society there was not likely to be any; but yet
such as, for want of better, they had, he undertook to show us. He
really seemed very much obliged to us for our opportune visit, and said
that it would be the making of him. It certainly did seem to be quite
necessary to the maintaining of the dignity of his office. One
invitation we had from a merchant of the place, a man whom they
described as being very rich and of great influence; and a plan was laid
for our having a picnic in the country. There is a place in the
neighbourhood of the town which has been prepared expressly for the use
of those who make rural excursions. A thick grove of trees keeps off the
sun, and soft turf lends a seat to the revellers. We could make out the
top of the trees from the anchorage, for the country is of an elevated
character, hanging out on lofty cliffs the different features of its
panorama. The effect produced by this arrangement of the scenery is
highly beautiful. It has in profusion one element of the beautiful, and
that is the feature of cascade. There is in one point a congress of
waterfalls, whereat may be counted no less than nine separate streams,
which pour down their abundance from the cliffs into the sea. The good
consul and his satellites bore us pretty constant company; and of great
service they were in preserving order among the motley crew that
constantly thronged our decks. We did not like to qualify the good
report we had so far gained and maintained, by any exhibition of
harshness towards the mob. But the sturdy janissary of Mr ---- thought
nothing of laying his stick across a fellow's shoulders, by way of
reminder to behave himself. I must say that many of them deserved it,
and for their sakes can but hope that they profited by the attention.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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